Best New Technique | Best New Hack

I stumbled upon the Sew Kind of Wonderful Curved ruler.  You can find them on You Tube here.  I ordered both the QCR (Quick Curves Ruler) regular and mini size.  The mini size came.  I did a few things with it (as I fell in love with curved pieces weekend before last).  When I found their videos and saw the patterns that they were making with it, I knew I had to have this ruler.

These curved blocks are on bias.  Accordingly, when you sew them, there is a natural wonkiness that occurs.  The patterns have plenty space to true up. However, as these are curved seams, the true up is based on the curved seam line.  You are marking two points at opposing ends of the curve that give you 1/8" from the seam to the outside edge and the furthest ends of the curve that lie within your block trim allowance.

That, is the best new technique.  The videos show you how easy and fun even that sewing these curves can be.  Further, this tecnique yields so many possibilities for your creativity to make fun and fresh designs.

Now the hack....  They demonstrate using a Sharpie to mark dots on your ruler.  Easy enough done--but a little scraping off involved.  However, I saw another use a dry erase pen. Well, the dry erase is the bomb.  I now have dry erase fine markers in my sewing area to mark my rulers for my cut measurements.  As it easily wipes away, it is a no muss, no fuss method.

Happy Hour Sewing Room Chores and Reflections

It was a stressful work week. And it was Valentine's Day.  I was engaged 40 years ago--oh it sounds like such a long time ago!  We typically do not go out on such holidays. Just too much hassle contending with everyone else.  So, I went to my fav Italian Restaurant in our small little town and got take out.

My sewing area, like all areas that are around me, got a bit out of hand.  You will not remember the Ajax White Tornado...but that is how I approach work and home life. My brain and body going too fast from one thing to another until suddenly you look around and ....well...it's a mess.

My sewing room is a bonus room over a garage--our garage is very large, and this room is very large.  It is also very much like a sanctuary.  One side of the area is a very large knee wall.  In one section there a  narrow alcove that is just wide enough for a futon mattress.  It has a 2x4 window that faces east.  It has a light above.  In fact, I'm sitting there now with my two English Setters typing this post.  Looking out the window, I'm high up and can see the high up tree life--squirrels and birds going about their business of living.  So it is a cozy space read.  I have a vintage Amelia Earheart suitcase, that makes the perfect flat stable area to set the laptop on, or, to set a beverage.

 I was able to repurpose many pieces of furniture to fit my needs for a sewing table, cutting table, ironing station and catch all.   Accordingly I have an eclectic mix of stuff that works just fine. So I took my glass of wine up, and began taking control of vertical spaces.  One helpful thing that I have is an upright laundry basket that I put all of my shreds (not scraps).  R. Arpell did a nice video on using that stuff to make animal bed stuffings.  Mind you, you are putting cotton scraps...no any paper or pins etc.  It's a perfect way to capture and reuse stuff.

It was nice quite time to find, fold, shuffle, sip, sip, sip....I managed to find the missing glove to my quilting gloves that I've been looking for 3 months.  That was a big win.  But I also pulled out my fat quarters for the William Morris fat quarter bundle that I purchased and began to find other things in my fabric stash that would augment it.

I have no idea what I plan to do with it, but William Morris really inspired me some years ago as I was designing a room for an addition that we were putting onto our house.

I also ran across a book that I purchased from Thrift Books.  It is Mia Rozmyn's "Freedom in Design:  New Directions in Foundation Paper Piecing."  I do seem to gravitate to the more modern 'stuff', though I've not made much.  I also found my American Philatelic magazine that the post office sent to me as I buy stamps directly from them.  I kept the book as I found that there were pieces in it that inspired me in terms of colors and shapes to use in quilting. 

Take a look at this Ellsworth Kelly set of stamps.  I was very inspired by this use of color and shapes.

I cut out some other pieces out that inspired me and taped them with painter's tape to the wall.

Anyway it was a reflective time to get some needful things done.  I also learned during that time that my sister in law's mother had passed.  She was a lovely woman who I had come to love.  I will miss her, but she was ready to go.  I wish her a loving Bon Voyage to eternity.

Weekend Skill Building: Half RectangleTriangle (HRT's) Units and the Clearview 60 Degree Ruler

Here's where I split my prior post....

On to HRT's.  Another way to repurpose my ugly fabric (and frankly not so ugly in other forms than the 4 x 7 blocks that I cut it into). This size does not meet the Heighth being 2 x Width.  But the principles still apply with respect to getting the right headspace so that when the block is nestled to another at the points, the block yields a perfect point at the seam allowance (which is....1/4").

 I used these blocks in this repurposed way to figure out how to use my Clearview 60 ruler to ensure that my pointy tips at the top and the bottom of the block were appropriately blunted.  In fact, you can see the top right edge of this block shows the bluntness (1/8") that you are tryint to achieve.  (I sewed two halves exactly on the diagonal).

Note the points on the join of the two split rectangles on the left top and the bottom right.  That 'offset' looks off, but if you measure 1/4" in (e.g. the seam line when it gets pieced) it will be a perfect point.

Here's how I went about doing this experimentation.

Overall:   Now there is a big nuance and some smaller nuances  about these split rectangle units (or half rectangle triangles ("HRT") that I did not immediately appreciate, which makes them tricky buggers to be sure.  Surprisingly, there's not alot on the internet about half rectangles units...and there is some diversity about how to make them (as it is with its kissing cousin the HST).  As with most things, find the method that works best for you.  THIS method works well for me, but I already had the ruler.  Further, I did not see any expositions about using this ruler for this job.

  1. First and foremost, don't go about it as you would half square triangle units (HST's).  You get a kite shape if you do.  And you may want that as a block component along the way...but not for an HRT.  Though admittedly it SEEMS so logical.  And for any of you who have had some oopsies' with paper pieceing triangles, you'll know that those angles don't always fold back the way you think!
  2. Nuance 1:  Typical ratio is height = 2 x width. (My blocks were different).  You can make these two at a time--any many espouse this method.  Personally, I think that one at a time is more straightforward for me.  And I don't think that the 2 at a time method saves any more time. Find and stick to YOUR preference.
  3. Nuance 2:  In piecing these together, you have a bias edge with an exceptional long taper.  Also, you have to have some overhang on either end (top overhangs bottom and bottom underhangs top).  That takes into consideration the 1/4" seam.  Basically the "v" notch that forms at the join of the bottom and top fabrics should be exactly 1/4" wide at where your needle starts to your right edge.
  4. Nuance 3 (the Big One!):  When you piece these together, you will have a beautiful HRT, with the diagonal going directly through each corner except that....... you need to have about 1/8" width flat top on each point in order to have 1/4" head space above the join (just as you would any other point). This headspace is necessary or you will lose your point.  I call this a nuance, because it was not immediately clear to me of this necessity (and it is not a necessity in HST's).  You can achieve this a number of ways with a regular ruler, trim down template or a specialty ruler--anything that allows you to measure and trim to this perfect 1/4" sweetspot ( from top and from side).  I found many of the proposed methods difficult or too time consuming.  Further, none of the rulers that I put my hands on allowed me to both measure and trim in a way that I felt that the block was properly aligned with regular rulers.
I was disheartened.

I briefly considered (and still may do so)  getting a trim down ruler specifically for HRT. As I awoke this morning, it occured to me that my Clearview 60 degree ruler might be just what I need.  It was!  It worked beautifully with no awkward measuring.  Because the ruler has the 60 degree lines (whether using pointy tip or or long base) you can snuggle that line right up to your 60 degree diagonal seam.  By using the line markings, you can easily see where the sweet spot is to give you the necessary intersection (1/4" in and 1/4" down).  I bought this ruler on Ebay, used.  It looked brand new, and it was an exceptional value ($12 v. the $29 on Amazon.).  I also call that a win.

Below is a graphic that I hope show my explanation better.  This method works for taking a rectangular block and cutting it directly on the diagonal.  This is not for the 2 at a time trimming or other methods.  Frankly, this method seams easiest for me.

Click image to make bigger. The beauty of this method is it uses better anchor points (e.g. the diagonal and side) to measure your 1/4" down and over--the sweetspot which will give you a 1/8" flat top on your point and a perfect 1/4" join when you sew two blocks together using a 1/4" seam allowance.

Hopefully, the following is clear.  The light green rectangle is your sewn block. (Ideally it would be two different colors.

Notice the diagonal line.  That is your sewn line after you have pressed your rectangular block open (though it also happens to align with the ruler line as the two should be the same if you have sewn correctly.)

By working with the flat base of the ruler, you can take advantage of the top center section to perform these easy steps.  The way that the ruler is marked, you will have not problems in knowing if you are right because the diagonal lines (guidepost 1) , center line (guidepost 2) are both squaring guides.  Now if you have lined the diagonal and the cut edge up on the right, but your top edge that you are cutting is materially skewed, you may have a block construction problem (errors in cutting, sewing, pressing).  
  1. Ensure the the point of your HRT is just right left of the center line of the ruler.
  2. The cut edge of your block should be aligned with the center line.
  3. The diagonal of your block should align exactly with the line on the ruler.  
  4. The goal is to trim the top so that the sweet spot is exactly aligned against the diagonal and the right edge of the fabric (1/4" from top and 1/4" from the right).  
  5. Once you have aligned the diagonal, the center edge and know that you have a point where you have a 1/4 measurement from the right, cut the top.  You have found the 1/4" width and the ruler is going to give you the 1/4" headspace.  
  6.  Rinse and repeat with the other end of the block.Simply turn the block so that the pointy end is nestled against the left edge of the ruler. You will be working on the markings on the mirror (right) side of the ruler.  The other diagonals will be going in the way that you need to perform the same steps.




Weekend Skill Building-Part 1 Wavy Lines

I had some fat quarters that I purchased at Tuesday Morning.  They were yellow print, 2 black prints and a white background print with a bee motif.  I thought I might do another 'brick quilt' cutting 4x 7" bricks in the prints and staggering with white bricks of same size.  I was...


UNDERWHELMED.


With no energy or enthusiasm for making anything with it, I decided that I would work on some skill building.  Specifically, I would introduce myself to wavy cutting and sewing, constructing half rectangle triangles (HRT's) and no ruler (free motion!) cutting.

I enjoyed working on the wavy cutting and piecing and free motion cutting (e.g. no ruler!).  It is important that  your fabrics are either both facing up or down.  I had initially thought that glue basting the seams would be a great way to join these seams prior to sewing.  But as it turns out, I think that R. Appell demonstrated the best method.  You can watch his video here.
 
 His technique has two main features.  Feature 1 is that you give yourself a bit of straight runway to start your stitching and then introduce curves.  Feature 2 is treat the top a bottom fabric as two dynamic pieces where you are actively manipulating both pieces of fabric (hence "dynamic").

This method provides a way to get going (straightish) and then confidently joining the curves.  As you are joining the concave and convex areas (which will sometimes be the top, and sometimes the bottom), you do so manipulating the top and bottom fabrics (he used the 'braiding' metaphor,  which is quite apt).  In researching further, I found additional teachers demonstrating same. I also saw lots of pinning (which led me to think that glue basting might be a fine idea.)  Not that a full on curve, such as a half circle, you would want the fully concave piece on the bottom.  That way you can gently pull the curve open and flat while stitching the convex piece to it.  It has the further advantage of allowing you to ensure that the excess fabric on the concave piece does not get angled and puckered.  Oh, old memories of sleeves to bodice from my garment construction days long ago.

After experimenting  between glueing and not, I found the "not" to be the easiest.  I did use my Appliquick tool to help guide the bottom fabric under the foot.  I don't applique much but I find this tool (particularly the one with the forked end) to be invaluable.  It stays my sewing machine, and having it there ensures I don't do any unseemly poking of fabric under a moving needle.  My index finger thanks.

My wavy seams looked really nice, and I was quite happy with my end result.  I want to do more skill building with more dramatic cuves...but for now, that was a good intro and whetted my appetite to want to do more.

I will also note, that I had the bright (idiot) idea that maybe I just sew a wavy line and then cut to it.  Nope.  That's all I'll say about that!  Though having such ideas and trying them out helps build construction knowledge.  And working with wavy cuts is very much like setting in shoulder seams (something I've not done in a couple of decades! 

My ugly fabric became the substrate for that experimentation.  I ended up with a very nice little fabric coaster.  I call that a win.

Ugly Fabric Cool Coaster
















My post got so long, I split it up.  HRT's are in Part 2.

N&W Salvage, Sandston, VA Finds

One of my favorite places to shop is N&W Salvage in nearby Sandston VA.  On a recent trip, I found the following:

  •  Cavalli Balsamico Classico, 500ml:  $12.99 (compare to $19-$25 for 250 ml)
  •  L'Olivier Extra virgin olive oil, 500 ml can:  $4.99 
  • Mestemacher Sunflower Seed Bread :  .99
  •  Tri-color Qunoa, 1lb:  .99
  • Jacobs Krunug Coffee, 17.6 oz:  2.99

 So many superb deals on excellent stuff that I will use and enjoy.  If I'm unfamiliar with a product, I always look at reviews and price comps, and of course, bring it home and try it.  The Jacobs Krunug Coffee was supberb.  I went back and got 2 cases.  We drink alot of coffee.



Homemade Dog Food Part 2

I often see well-meaning people publish recipes that are purportedly complete, but they are not.  Accordingly, I encourage anyone who is interested in feeding their cat or dog a homemade diet to engage in the necessary research to ensure that you can evaluate information that you read.

You can do this!

There's alot of "stuff" on the internet.  I consider Donald R. Strombeck's site  http://dogcathomeprepareddiet.com/  the definitive place to start. (I feel like one of his apostles as I evangelize his method).  There are also some good books, and not so good books.  I say save your money and review Dr. Strombecks's work.  There you will find a wealth of background and information on feeding PLUS  there are lots of recipes for dogs and cats.  He's a trusted source as he was chair of the Veterinarian School at UC Davis.

Here are some things that I see consistently that I want to address from my perspective.  I'm not an expert, but my training and experience make me an expert at understanding substantive variances in methodologies and applying critical thinking. Accordingly, I offer "this" from my perspective. Your mileage may vary.  I encourage you to research and develop your own persepctive to include understanding that being misinformed can have consequences for your dog's health.  However, having said that, this is not rocket science.

If you adopt a feeding program (and I hope that you do), recognize that there will be many favorable benefits.  Yes, it is more work, but you will find work methods that you systematize so that you are efficient.  I have a meat grinder and a pressure cooker which I consider essential.  (My meat grinder is a large one (#22) to grind bone).  The pot in pot method for pressure cooking ensures that there is no scorching.  I would not feed my dogs this way without either.  Note, too, that I started out feeding 2 English Setters, 1 American Bulldog and 1 Pit bull.  Accordingly, I'm feeding alot..so I have to have this amount of processing.   (Though my herd is thinning due to age.)

Costs:  I pay no more feeding this way than I would if I were buying specialty dog food.  Plus if you have dogs with skin issues and allergies, you will eliminate/reduce trips to vet.  Because I shop at a restaurant warehouse, I can buy leg quarters (40lbs)  at 35-50 cents per pound.  Boneless skinless thighs (40 ;bs)  are 1.60 per lb.  Prices vary.  I buy 50lbs of rice at about $18 per bag.  

If you do nothing else, make sure that you understand the calcium/phosphorus levels that you dog is getting.  Too much is as bad as not enough.  If you do not plan to grind bone in pieces of meat with non-bone in, then you need to get some bone meal.  KLM makes one and that is what Dr. Strombeck uses.  Also be mindful that too much pumpkin and sweet potatoes (favorite additives by some) can give your dog too much vitamin A.  So keep that additive down.  Also, it's worth looking at your dog's stools to see how they are tolerating your 'recipe'.  They'll need some break-in time if switching over from dry food.


Here are some things to consider:
  •  "Dogs have no need for starch; they are carnivores".  I've seen this written many times.  Dogs are omnivores. Making statements such as this show little understanding of dog's eating habits.  I have a garden.  My dogs will eat tomatoes off the vine, cucumbers and blackberries.  If you feed your dog a balanced diet where they get the proper ratio of protein, fats, and vitamins/minerals you have no need to engage in such mythology.  Cats are obligate carnivores (though I see that Fancy Feast puts veggies in some of their stuff).  So recognize this talk as dog feeding fundamentalism. Like most things...use your critical thinking skills.
    • Dogs can certainly NOT have starch and do fine with the right balance of meat/bones.  But it is more difficult and expensive to feed.  Dr. Pitcairn recommends starch to cut down on the cancer causing effects in the meat. Dr. Strombeck's recipes also have starch.  I use starches, and my dog's have no ill effects.  Further, adding a starch adds vitamins, is easily digestible and makes feeding this way affordable without compromising your dog's nutritional needs.Get the rest right, and it will not matter what ratios you choose to feed. Read on....
  • Balance of protein, fat and starches:  I feed my dogs a ratio of 1:2  or 1:1 meat/veg mixture to starch.  ( 33% meat to 67% starch or 50% meat to 50% starch by weight).  This ratio is governed by your dog's age and activity level.  Some dogs need more protein than others to maintain weight and muscle tone.  Your dog's body condition will help you determine if you need to vary this mixture.
    • Ratio of bone-in to boneless protein:  Get one thing right..this one.  My meat veg mixture is 1:1 ratio of bone-in to boneless.  Leg quarters combined with boneless skinless thighs yields a 25% bone ratio which is what dogs require.  Too much or too little is no good. If you are not grinding, get KLM bone meal and follow recipe instructions. No further calcium/phosphorous supolement is needed.  
      • Vegetables:  I add 20% by weight  of frozen vegetables which I grind in with the meat. (for every 10lbs of meat, I add 2lbs of frozen vegetables).  (I end up with about 100 lbs of this stuff in one processing). No, you do not need to add vegetables.  My dogs enjoy them.
      • Storage:  I freeze this mixture in 1qt and 1/2 gallon freezer containers until ready to use.  Arrow makes the best freezer containers.  They are high quality, inexpensive, and work very well.  They freeze well, and you can defrost in the microwave.  You can find them at a discount if you look.  They last for years.  Remember, I'm feeding raw, and you do NOT want to cook your bone mixture.  Get the bone in/non bone ratios right.  Overall dogs require a 25% ratio of bone in.  So feeding just leg quarters is too much bone. Feeding just ground turkey is no bone..so no good.  You'll need bone meal.  You need to be at the right ratio over time.
      • Another thing to watch out for is folks who make "fresh veggies and berries" and then freeze.  Note that the enzymes in fresh foods will degrade foods in the freezer unless they are blanched.  This is basic food preparation/preservation.  Again...evaluate your source and modify, use your critical thinking skills, and apply what you learn as necessary.
      • Organ meats:  no more than 10-15% should be organ meats.  I used to grind these in, but I don't anymore.  Too much organ meat can cause toxicity  levels.
    • Raw v. cooked:  Raw meat has helpful enzymes.  However if you have a dog that has health issues, cooking the meat may be prudent.  I feed raw, and I've had no problems. Never cook meat that has ground in bone.
    • Starches:  I use a variety of starches which I prepare daily for my dogs. It is important that you cook whatever starch you plan to use fully to ensure that it is digestible.  For beans, lentils and rice, I use the pot in pot method in my pressure cooker.  It ensures quick, no maintenance prep.   I buy rice in 50lb bags and beans/lentils in 25lb bags.  If you don't get these in bulk, your food cost goes up.  If you have a small dog, that does not matter.  I'm feeding 3 dogs(40-65 lbs each).  The list of starches that I use are
      • rice (brown/white)
      • beans (any variety, pinto, navy)
      • lentils (red or brown).  Note that the red get mushier, and the brown stay firmer.
      • macaroni products 
      • Oatmeal (though I don't use this for cost reasons)
    • If your dogs have grass or grain allergies, you should modify as necessary.  
    • I give my dogs a Vitamin E pill.  
    • I use a mortar and pestle and grind up regular adult multi vitamins.  I put in a spice shaker and shake on food.
  • Feeding:  I used to feed my dogs 2x a day.  Now, I just do once a day.  This was for my convenience.  I would say that 2x is preferable.  I have a chart for each dog that shows the total weight and the meat v. starch weight.  I weigh out one, tare out the scale and then weigh the other.  That way I know that the ratio and the amount is correct. 
    • I feed my 65lb 7 yo pit bull 20-27 oz per day.
    • I feed my 40lb 15 yo setter 16oz per day. (active for age)
    • I feed my 40 lb 14 yo setter 10 oz per day.  (couch potato)
  • Adjustments:   Monitor your dog's stools and body condition and make adjustments as needed.  See more ribs...up protein/fat and/or quantity.  See rolly polly, adjust downward.
  • Water intake:  feeding this way has so much more water, you'll find the water demands of your dogs drastically reduced.
 My dogs love dinner time.  They so enjoy their food that even though two of them are very old, they are yipping and wagging their tails EVERY SINGLE NIGHT.  That's proof enough to me that even after feeding for almost 6 years, their food is something that they really enjoy. 
  

Homemade Dog Food Update Part 1

My blog count up tells me that as of this post, I've been feeding homemade dog food for 1967 days. During these 5.4 years, I hesitate to think about how many pounds of leg quarters, chicken thighs, ground turkey, rice, beans, potatoes I've gone through.

The main reason for adapting this diet was Angel Marie...the fiercesome American Bulldog we adopted after our part Am Bulldog, Macey, died.  I made the mistake of looking on Pet Finder (same as I did after our English Setter, Lucy, passed, and I found Ella), and spotted a beautiful white and brindle full bloodied Am Bulldog. Who knows how this dog was named Angel Marie.

I drove 1.5 hours to Ivor, VA to adopt her.  She was through a Humane Society.  Most of those are loosely organized with committed volunteers who foster these dogs, and then spend their weekends at Petsmart to try to get these dogs adopted.  Please consider donating to one of your local Humane Societies.

When I went to view Angel Marie, the foster parent was not there.  She was still en route from Newport News at an adoption event.  She arrived shortly after I did.  Her backyard was surrounded by a sturdy wooden fence, and I could hear the dogs in the back.  When she got back, she returned the unadopted to the lot.

She brought Angel out, and she walked tentatively and painfully.  She had just been treated for a severe staff infection in her feet. As I saw her walk, I could only wonder what I was getting into.  She was advertised as 5.  However, her vet work had her at 5 years old 3 years ago.  I believe that it was an honest mistake.  When I asked about it, the foster mom seemed genuinely surprised.

So there I stood, watching this dog who was in the last third of her life, suffering from food allergies and a staff infection when the foster mom said, "I understand if you don't wish to take her."  Here was this woman, devoting her time to making a home for dogs that had none.  Shame on me, if I were not to take at least one dog off her hands.  With her food allergies and her staff infection, she was currently unadoptable.

They waived the adoption fee (which I did not ask for) and they would not take my $100 donation.  "You'll need it to care for her."    I emphasized that I would care for this dog.  She would get appropriate vetting and a loving home, but she would not get an extraordinary means to lengthen her life in the event of a life threatening event.  "We understand."

There began our odyssey on homemade diet.  She thrived on the homemade diet and returned to robust health.  No allergies.  Only one incidence of a staff infection return. But after that (and until her death at the ripe old age of 12) she was healthy.

I continue to feed this diet to my dogs, and I don't think that I'll ever return to regular dog food.  The cost of feeding is no more than buying super premium dog food.  But it does require a daily time commitment over and above scooping out some kibble, and a committment every 6-8 weeks to grind the meat supply.

I currently have 2 English Setters: 13 and 15 years old.  And Dexter, a Pit Bull, who will be 7.  I credit their collective good health to making the investment in this diet.  Bully breeds often have skin issues (as Angel did), but these disappeared for her.  They never appeared for Dexter.  Ella, one of my Setters, used to get a skin rash periodically, but this too disappeared on this diet.

In another post I'll point out some highlights.  Here's Part 2.



Quilt Recipe: Cute Baby Quilt using Three Fat Quarters

I'm a big fan of the Free Spirit 20 fat quarter mystery bundle that is sold on Amazon.  You get all sorts of stuff, but I love it (and you can see from my reviews of it).  Part of the fun and creativity is how to use this economical bundle.

In one of my purchases, I had four fat quarters in David Walker's Raining Cats and Dogs fabric line.  The fabric was very cute, and I wanted to figure out a way to use it in a quilt.  After much consideration I came up with the following quilt.

This pattern was super easy, and I feel like is a wonderful way to showcase cute bright fabrics.  I don't have a quilting program, but found a freeware called Inkscape.  It is powerful (but a bit of a learning curve), and helpful way to layout quilt ideas.  I used it to optimize the fabric that I had on hand.  Below is how I was able to visualize what I wanted to do with the colors and sizes.

This quilt is made from 3 fat quarters and a background fabric.  There are 6 columns and 12 rows.  the finished block size is 3.5" x 6.5".  Cut size is 4" x 7".  I was able to get 12 blocks from each fat quarter with NO waste.  I think that 3 bright, cheerful prints works quite well.  Using the same fabric in each row created a lovely disbursement of color to my eye.  I will definitely be making more like this.

I pieced the back using a split fat quarter from the same fabric line.  I carefully pieced it so that it would look seamless.  The balance of the fabric was a 1 yard piece of fabric I had purchased from Tuesday Morning. It was in the teal blue family range.  I used white strips to provide a break.  I had originally thought to make everything perfectly balanced (equally-sized teal), but elected to let it be more organic  with a little more at the top.  The binding was from a set of colorful 2.5" precut strips that picked up the teal, orange, blue and yellow.  I love how this came together.

I created a "Quilt Recipe" for this:




Print Recipe
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Three Fat Quarters Baby Quilt


This Quilt uses 3 bright and colorful fat quarters (with NO WASTE) plus your choice of background fabric to create a 39" x 42" quilt. Use background of your choice. Easy for beginners and showcases fabric choices.
Yield: 39.5 x 42.5" Quilt
Serves:
Ingredients
  • 1 fatqtr Fabric A Cut WOF, 4" strips; subcut into 7" lengths; QTY 12
  • 1 fatqtr Fabric B Cut WOF, 4" strips; subcut into 7" lengths; QTY 12
  • 1 fatqtr Fabric C Cut WOF, 4" strips; subcut into 7" lengths; QTY 12
  • 6 strips Fabric D (Background) Cut WOF, 4" strips; subcut into 7"' lengths; QTy 36
  • 4 2.5" strips Binding 2.5" x WOF strips for a total of ~174"
Directions
  1. This quilt is 6 rows x 12 rows of alternating blocks. Finished quilt is approximately 42.5" x 39.5". You will need
  2. Column
  3. Row 1 2 3 4 5 6
  4. 1 A D A D A D
  5. 2 D B D B D B
  6. 3 C D C D C D
  7. 4 D A D A D A
  8. 5 B D B D B D
  9. 6 D C D C D C
  10. 7 A D A D A D
  11. 8 D B D B D B
  12. 9 C D C D C D
  13. 10 D A D A D A
  14. 11 B D B D B D
  15. 12 D C D C D C
  16. A Fabric A
  17. B Fabric B
  18. C Fabric C
  19. D Fabric D (Background)
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DIY Quilt Basting Spray and Musings on Making a Quilt Sandwich

I've been quilting for about 7 months now.  In my OCD deep dive on basting methods, I ran across this blog which is a nice exposition of how to use basting spray that (drum beat, horn toot) you make yourself.  The only pricey ingredient is rubbing alcohol, and that is, well, cheap.

Here's the recipe.  You can see that I like it so well, that I put it in my Plan to Eat recipe file.



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Quilt Baste

Source: californiaquilting.blogspot.com
Serves:
Ingredients
  • 3 cups water
  • 3-4 tbsp regular flour
  • 1⁄2 tsp salt
  • 8 ounces or rubbing alcohol
  • clean spray bottle
Directions
  1. - In a pot place 2 cups of water and 1/2 tsp of salt bring to a boil and reduce to a gentle boil.
  2. - In a gravy shaker (or a jam jar) put 1 cup of cold water and 3 tbsp of flour - shake until the flour and water are combined.
  3. - Whisk the flour mixture into the gently boiling water like you are making gravy and let it cook until the consistency of gravy/egg whites/ thin gruel.
  4. - Remove from the heat and let it cool down to room temperature.
  5. - In a clean spray bottle add 8 ounces of rubbing alcohol and the cooled flour mixture, gently shake and go sandwich a quilt.
  6. (LD note: I used corn starch and it worked beautifully; I also squeezed some Elmer's glue in the bottle after using it for one quilt. Seemed to stick a bit better)
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I've used this recipe exclusively, so I have no experience on how it compares to 501 or any other products largely because it works so well, there seemed no way to improve on results.  I want to share with you my current method of making a quilt sandwich using this product.  I'm a newish quilter, so I don't present any of this as anything but what is currently working for me.

One of the most difficult things for me was getting the back squared.  I had an idiot savant thought that started out as the latter and ended up as the former.  My idea was to fold the back of the batting over the front for each side and run a sharpie against to mark the boundaries.  That way, when the quilt was flipped, the marked edge would show, and I could square things up nicely.  SAVANT!

It worked so beautifully until I applied my basting spray above.  The alcohol caused th ink to run and stain my fabric--front and back.  Thankfully it was inside the seam allowance, but it easily could have creeped further in.  IDIOT!

My second idea, is my current working modality.  After I securely baste the top of the quilt to the batting (method described below)  I run a small zig zag with colorful thread just on the outside edges.  That creates a beautiful line on the back.  I've had NO issues with puckering on the top of the quilt.  Frankly, this basting method is so secure, there is really no place for the fabric to go.  It really becomes one with the batting (just try to rip it off!) to become a unified and inseparable. More below.

Quilt Baste Method:

  • Cut batting with 3" oversize on all four sides of quilt top.
  • Center quilt top on top of batting.  
  • Iron quilt top on top of batting.  This produces a nice ironed top and relaxes wrinkles in batting.  
  • Work in 24-30 inch sections starting at one end (top or bottom of quilt). Fold the first fabric section to be adhered  back on the quilt top (right sides together).   Using a fine mist from your sprayer, spray the entire section of batting to accept your first adhesion section..
    • On larger quilts you may have to work from center to side. So long as you keep working to RADIATE towards the next section of unbasted, your material should be evenly dispersed across the batting without wrinkles.
  • Place the fabric section that you turned back on top of the sprayed batting (it will be moist), and smoothe from the center out to the sides.  I have found that hands work fine or you can use one of your ruler edges to do this. (I've done both).
  • IRON!!!   Now, I have repurposed a teflon grill mat for this next step to dry out the baste and get a good adhesion.  At the very least, I recommend using a pressing cloth.  If you choose not to use either, but make sure that you do not iron over your fabric to to the batting.  If there is any overspray that will get onto your iron.
    •  Always work from your last area to virgin area, from center to edges.  Once this stuff sticks, it sticks.  That means that if you've made an adhesion error (read:  wrinkle), you'll have a devil of a time getting it out.  If you pull your fabric up, you'll have adhered batting.  You could spray with water, but I'm not sure how that would work.  Best not to have to look for alternative methods...with reasonable care you will not have to. But I know first hand that pulling it up will remove batting.  (Whahhh!)
  • Now that you have one section completed, that will serve as your anchor. Fold back your fabric  onto to the basted portion (right sides together) revealing that boundary between your plowed (basted) field to your unplowed (unbasted)  field of remainder basting.  Where it is stuck shows your starting line for your next section.  Continue with basting, unfolding, smoothing, ironing from last basted edge to the unbasted remainder. 
  • Now step back and admire your work.  Have a drink and do the same to the other side.
  • After my TOP is secured, I run a small zig zag on the very outside edge of my quilt top.  I put a colored thread in the bobbin.  That way when I flip my quilt to basted the back, I can perfectly see my edges 

Some more comments/tips:

  • If you don't have a good spray bottle, get one.  I've had NO issues with clogging.
  • Pressing Cloth...mentioned above, mentioned again.  I use a teflon grill mat which is great for using on your ironing board as protection when you glue baste.  It is slick, slick, slick, and your iron will glide over if you use as pressing aid.  Warning, it gets hot.
  • Will this clog my needle/thread?  No.  But you have to ensure that the product is dry, and your hot iron and/or time, will ensure both.   I do lots of glue basting to include this method of quilt basting, and I've not had any problems.
  • Will unused product go bad?  I've had unused product for more than 30 days.  I've seen reported that mold grows.  I've not had that problem.  Further, I'm unsure how it would with the alcohol content....you are adding 8 oz of alcohol to 3 cups of water...so that is a 25% alcohol content.  I don't think that mold can grow in that anymore than it can grow in your liquour.  It is not a hospitable environment.
  • I put the cornstarch, salt and water in the microwave.   It works well.  Do not add alcohol until your cooking is done.
  • Cool your product before putting in spray bottle with alcohol.  Otherwise it is still producing steam and it will squirt out of your bottle (or melt it).
  •  If you hold up your batting sections to create more of a vertical surface, you might avoid some overspray.  Or consider using a cardboard shield.
  • Will it come unstuck over time if I'm not ready to quilt?  I've not had that problem.