Bernette 334D Serger

 I've had my Bernette 334D serger for more than 30 years.  I bought it when I was making my daughter's clothes (as most clothes for little girls seemed to be hooker clothes downsized.  Now, I'm no prude, so when I say that, it means something.  I crafted T-shirt dresses and lovely courdoroy jumpers...and a serger works beautifully on these. When I pulled my sewing machine out I had it serviced and then later thought it would be a good idea to have my serger serviced (which had never been done).  And then later, I bought a new Bernina 530B (on close out).  So now if have my Bernina 910 (mechanical), my Bernette 334D serger, and my new Bernina.

With mask making, I quickly determined (after folding, pressing and folding and stitching edges of the cheek and mouthpiece) that using my serger would make short work of finishing those edges of the Olson mask.

The journey of a thousand curse words starts with the first step of buying new thread.  Yes, I have some cones of thread, but they are old.  With new thread having arrived, I began the journey of threading the serger.  I had no memory on how to do so, but the thread guide is clear...except I still couldn't get a chain stitch to work.  And I broke a needle (still don't know how that happened).  And I had the needle fall out (the needle seating is very difficult as there is not much space and the screws are very small.)  Also in all of this, my eyes are all the more older.  Even with reading glasses, I was having a hard time seeing things.  I gave up.  Let it rest. 

The next day, I had a renewed sense of hope.  This is a machine that I had successfully used (my voice in my head said)...and it never bit me.  On to the internet.....the videos on the Bernette were just horrible.  But I did learn from a blog that Juki made the serger for Bernina.  I found a beautiful HD video that clued me into what I was doing incorrectly (and reminded me of what all my buttons and knobs were for).  

Success.  I forgot what a monster machine that serger is.  I feel like my productivity will be much higher.

The Great Maskapade: Part 2

Materials are in short supply.  I did get some surgical wrap today.  I bought it on ebay at a very good price.  It is light weight, breathable.  I had planned to use it as lining for mask, but may need to test that for fitness for purpose.


Instead, it occurred to me that I could make a lightweight mask cover.  Given that one of my daughter's nurse friends has to use her mask for a week, I was inspired to try to make a mask cover.  Because there are so many different masks, this one is contoured (based on the Olson face mask cover) and should be somewhat universal.  I put a tie on it so it could be fastened.  But a healthcare worker may want to cut the wings and fit it to their mask.

Anyway...it is a start.

Tips on Mask Masking

With so many makers working full tilt on making masks (of all variations), I wanted to offer a few tips that I have been using for fitted masks or filtered masks.

  • Printing the pattern.  If you trim a manila file folder and run it through themanual feed, you will end up with a durable pattern.  Trim to the pattern with paper scissors.  
  • Preparing material:
    • Fabric should be prewashed.  I use a mesh laundry bag which keep ragging on the edges more controlled.
    • Observe directionals and striping. Some striped fabric may look better vertically oriented rather than horizontal.
    • For the widest pattern piece,  (and oriented appropriately for your fabric), cut a width of fabric that fits the widest pattern piece.
      • I can easily cut 4 layers (e.g. 2 masks at a time).  So you can stack your doubled up fabric and cut efficiently.
    • Lay the strip of fabric horizontally in front of you.  Place the pattern pieces out on your strip...being mindful of top of your masks and orient all pieces accordingly.  To conserve fabric, you can place your pieces very close together. 
    • TRACE each pattern onto your fabric.  I use a fine line Sharpie. It is quick and easy and it saves your pattern.
    • Cut your pattern pieces with the aid of a smaller, clear ruler and your rotary cutter. A specialy quilting ruler (e.g. flying geese ruler) has fewer markings and will make it easier to see your tracing lines. I have a Sew Kind of Wonderful curve ruler.  It has the advantage of having fewer markings and the curve can be used (and pivoted). But you don't need a curve...keep reading...
      • Cut the straight pieces between the patterns.  If you have 3 pattern pieces, cut the straight lines between them so that you now are working with each pattern piece to more fully cut out.
      • Curved lines.  Yes you can cut them easily with a straight ruler!  Remember that a point on a curve is static.  By using your rotary cutter and placing the blade against an acrylic ruler that you are turning to follow the curve of your traced pattern. If your line is curving to your left, then you will pivot your ruler left as you cut moving your blade forward with the pivot. . . curving to the right, you pivot your ruler to the right moving your blade with it.  It may take a little practice, but I promise you that it is worth building some muscle memory.  You will end up with a lovely, smooth line. And it makes very quick work (and saves your templates).
If you incorporate these tips into your mask making, you will find that you will be productive and your time will be more enjoyable. 

The Great Maskapade

First: When you hear something that doesn't make sense, you can easily find answers (and if you are not careful conspiracy theories).  I have a good inside voice that knows when things I hear abrade against facts.  So when COVID first came out, I knew that the admonishments that masks would not protect you were false, and that it was simply a ploy to prevent a run on supplies.  A reading of the medical literature regarding contagious  diseases point to personal protective equipment and hygiene as the two most important things that you can do.  And those are simple facts that any can rely on.

Second: If you don't have a mask, getting a good one is nearly impossible. They are priviledged for our healthcare workers, and I don't disagree with that.

Third:  If you want to make a mask, materials are in short supply.


The Fabric Patch had some great videos on making masks.  In addition to having a quilt shop, she is a nurse. From her site and from Craft Passion and another site, I have come up with the following.

Craft Passion has an excellent pattern.  I'm linking you to my download here.  I have made the women's mask and they fit well--to include men.  Click here to see detailed constuction, but please continue reading below for what I believe to be important changes.  And she has posted a video which you can see below. I am making these masks but with interfacing.  Because the stiff interfacing that I had made the mask hard to turn inside out, I put a band on the bottom.  (And I did not create a pocket) .  (UPDATE:  I abandoned this pattern for the Olson masks pattern (PDF) which  you can find here.  I have found this method easier for inserting the wire and finishing than the video below.)



Here are the amendment that I think should be undertaken.

  • Use nonwoven (fusible or non-fusible) interfacing on both sides of the mask.  This addition will give you  particulate protection while being breathable.  This is information from  The Fabric Patch. 
  • If you are using nonwoven interfacing that is stiff, turning the mask is difficult. (I had the stiff stuff!). So I simply put a band on the bottom of the mask using 1.5" wide cut fabric folded in half; sewn to the bottom, flipped over and top stitched.
  • Elastic cannot be found. I saw another video where the maker was using a 45" ribbon/bias tape etc.  To duplicate,  I made a fabric cord by cutting a 1" WOF strip (not on bias), pressing in half (which makes is feed faster) and ran it through my bias tape foot which I've had for years.  It takes less than a minute to sew once you've threaded it.  This gives a continues loop of 45".  Rather than creating a tie for the top of the mask and one for the bottom, run your  a loop from the bottom of one side of the mask up through the top hole, and then thread it down the top to the bottom on the other side.  Adjust your ties so that right and left hang evenly.  The wearer will adjust the bask and the top of the head loop.  
  • I had some electrical wire to use as the nose wire.  It is a heavier gauge than needed, but worked fine. I'll get a smaller gauge wire. I used my zipper foot to create a pocket by topstitching to encase the zipper.

My mask is being washed now, so I cannot snap a picture.  I will once it is out of the washer.

Keep yourself safe...

Welcomed Diversions

With Spring unfolding rapidly, one way to escape the ominipresent (and oppressive) COVID-19 news is to look outside.  I'm fortunate to live in the country, so the act of being outside and experiencing social distancing are harmonious.  For those who cannot see nature up close without accepting unacceptable risks, consider going to the Cornell Lab Live Bird Cams.

My persona favorite is the Barred Owl, bird Cam.  You can visit here. We have barred owls here (they are everywhere), but I've never discovered where the nest is.  Accordingly, I can watch this lovely girl here.  This year, she has 3 eggs v. 2 over the last couple of years. 

Bird couples are very necessary.  As the female nests/broods the male needs to fetch.  I'm always saddened when I see a dead barred owl on the road, becauseI know there is another half of the family dependent on that bird's production.

Looking at the barred ow bird cam is not for the feint of heart!  They are opportunistic eaters.  The male brings snakes, mice, squirrels, frogs, worms, crayfish, and all manner of birds.  Whatever is not eaten becomes part of the larder...it hangs around become smaller and smaller until gobbled up.  Now with 3 mouths to feed presuming all chicks hatch, both parents will be quite busy.

It is a wondrous thing to watch.  Last year I saw it from the beginning until the last one fledged.  You'll be delighted (and at times horrified).