Homemade Dog Food Part 2

I often see well-meaning people publish recipes that are purportedly complete, but they are not.  Accordingly, I encourage anyone who is interested in feeding their cat or dog a homemade diet to engage in the necessary research to ensure that you can evaluate information that you read.

You can do this!

There's alot of "stuff" on the internet.  I consider Donald R. Strombeck's site  http://dogcathomeprepareddiet.com/  the definitive place to start. (I feel like one of his apostles as I evangelize his method).  There are also some good books, and not so good books.  I say save your money and review Dr. Strombecks's work.  There you will find a wealth of background and information on feeding PLUS  there are lots of recipes for dogs and cats.  He's a trusted source as he was chair of the Veterinarian School at UC Davis.

Here are some things that I see consistently that I want to address from my perspective.  I'm not an expert, but my training and experience make me an expert at understanding substantive variances in methodologies and applying critical thinking. Accordingly, I offer "this" from my perspective. Your mileage may vary.  I encourage you to research and develop your own persepctive to include understanding that being misinformed can have consequences for your dog's health.  However, having said that, this is not rocket science.

If you adopt a feeding program (and I hope that you do), recognize that there will be many favorable benefits.  Yes, it is more work, but you will find work methods that you systematize so that you are efficient.  I have a meat grinder and a pressure cooker which I consider essential.  (My meat grinder is a large one (#22) to grind bone).  The pot in pot method for pressure cooking ensures that there is no scorching.  I would not feed my dogs this way without either.  Note, too, that I started out feeding 2 English Setters, 1 American Bulldog and 1 Pit bull.  Accordingly, I'm feeding alot..so I have to have this amount of processing.   (Though my herd is thinning due to age.)

Costs:  I pay no more feeding this way than I would if I were buying specialty dog food.  Plus if you have dogs with skin issues and allergies, you will eliminate/reduce trips to vet.  Because I shop at a restaurant warehouse, I can buy leg quarters (40lbs)  at 35-50 cents per pound.  Boneless skinless thighs (40 ;bs)  are 1.60 per lb.  Prices vary.  I buy 50lbs of rice at about $18 per bag.  

If you do nothing else, make sure that you understand the calcium/phosphorus levels that you dog is getting.  Too much is as bad as not enough.  If you do not plan to grind bone in pieces of meat with non-bone in, then you need to get some bone meal.  KLM makes one and that is what Dr. Strombeck uses.  Also be mindful that too much pumpkin and sweet potatoes (favorite additives by some) can give your dog too much vitamin A.  So keep that additive down.  Also, it's worth looking at your dog's stools to see how they are tolerating your 'recipe'.  They'll need some break-in time if switching over from dry food.


Here are some things to consider:
  •  "Dogs have no need for starch; they are carnivores".  I've seen this written many times.  Dogs are omnivores. Making statements such as this show little understanding of dog's eating habits.  I have a garden.  My dogs will eat tomatoes off the vine, cucumbers and blackberries.  If you feed your dog a balanced diet where they get the proper ratio of protein, fats, and vitamins/minerals you have no need to engage in such mythology.  Cats are obligate carnivores (though I see that Fancy Feast puts veggies in some of their stuff).  So recognize this talk as dog feeding fundamentalism. Like most things...use your critical thinking skills.
    • Dogs can certainly NOT have starch and do fine with the right balance of meat/bones.  But it is more difficult and expensive to feed.  Dr. Pitcairn recommends starch to cut down on the cancer causing effects in the meat. Dr. Strombeck's recipes also have starch.  I use starches, and my dog's have no ill effects.  Further, adding a starch adds vitamins, is easily digestible and makes feeding this way affordable without compromising your dog's nutritional needs.Get the rest right, and it will not matter what ratios you choose to feed. Read on....
  • Balance of protein, fat and starches:  I feed my dogs a ratio of 1:2  or 1:1 meat/veg mixture to starch.  ( 33% meat to 67% starch or 50% meat to 50% starch by weight).  This ratio is governed by your dog's age and activity level.  Some dogs need more protein than others to maintain weight and muscle tone.  Your dog's body condition will help you determine if you need to vary this mixture.
    • Ratio of bone-in to boneless protein:  Get one thing right..this one.  My meat veg mixture is 1:1 ratio of bone-in to boneless.  Leg quarters combined with boneless skinless thighs yields a 25% bone ratio which is what dogs require.  Too much or too little is no good. If you are not grinding, get KLM bone meal and follow recipe instructions. No further calcium/phosphorous supolement is needed.  
      • Vegetables:  I add 20% by weight  of frozen vegetables which I grind in with the meat. (for every 10lbs of meat, I add 2lbs of frozen vegetables).  (I end up with about 100 lbs of this stuff in one processing). No, you do not need to add vegetables.  My dogs enjoy them.
      • Storage:  I freeze this mixture in 1qt and 1/2 gallon freezer containers until ready to use.  Arrow makes the best freezer containers.  They are high quality, inexpensive, and work very well.  They freeze well, and you can defrost in the microwave.  You can find them at a discount if you look.  They last for years.  Remember, I'm feeding raw, and you do NOT want to cook your bone mixture.  Get the bone in/non bone ratios right.  Overall dogs require a 25% ratio of bone in.  So feeding just leg quarters is too much bone. Feeding just ground turkey is no bone..so no good.  You'll need bone meal.  You need to be at the right ratio over time.
      • Another thing to watch out for is folks who make "fresh veggies and berries" and then freeze.  Note that the enzymes in fresh foods will degrade foods in the freezer unless they are blanched.  This is basic food preparation/preservation.  Again...evaluate your source and modify, use your critical thinking skills, and apply what you learn as necessary.
      • Organ meats:  no more than 10-15% should be organ meats.  I used to grind these in, but I don't anymore.  Too much organ meat can cause toxicity  levels.
    • Raw v. cooked:  Raw meat has helpful enzymes.  However if you have a dog that has health issues, cooking the meat may be prudent.  I feed raw, and I've had no problems. Never cook meat that has ground in bone.
    • Starches:  I use a variety of starches which I prepare daily for my dogs. It is important that you cook whatever starch you plan to use fully to ensure that it is digestible.  For beans, lentils and rice, I use the pot in pot method in my pressure cooker.  It ensures quick, no maintenance prep.   I buy rice in 50lb bags and beans/lentils in 25lb bags.  If you don't get these in bulk, your food cost goes up.  If you have a small dog, that does not matter.  I'm feeding 3 dogs(40-65 lbs each).  The list of starches that I use are
      • rice (brown/white)
      • beans (any variety, pinto, navy)
      • lentils (red or brown).  Note that the red get mushier, and the brown stay firmer.
      • macaroni products 
      • Oatmeal (though I don't use this for cost reasons)
    • If your dogs have grass or grain allergies, you should modify as necessary.  
    • I give my dogs a Vitamin E pill.  
    • I use a mortar and pestle and grind up regular adult multi vitamins.  I put in a spice shaker and shake on food.
  • Feeding:  I used to feed my dogs 2x a day.  Now, I just do once a day.  This was for my convenience.  I would say that 2x is preferable.  I have a chart for each dog that shows the total weight and the meat v. starch weight.  I weigh out one, tare out the scale and then weigh the other.  That way I know that the ratio and the amount is correct. 
    • I feed my 65lb 7 yo pit bull 20-27 oz per day.
    • I feed my 40lb 15 yo setter 16oz per day. (active for age)
    • I feed my 40 lb 14 yo setter 10 oz per day.  (couch potato)
  • Adjustments:   Monitor your dog's stools and body condition and make adjustments as needed.  See more ribs...up protein/fat and/or quantity.  See rolly polly, adjust downward.
  • Water intake:  feeding this way has so much more water, you'll find the water demands of your dogs drastically reduced.
 My dogs love dinner time.  They so enjoy their food that even though two of them are very old, they are yipping and wagging their tails EVERY SINGLE NIGHT.  That's proof enough to me that even after feeding for almost 6 years, their food is something that they really enjoy. 
  

Homemade Dog Food Update Part 1

My blog count up tells me that as of this post, I've been feeding homemade dog food for 1967 days. During these 5.4 years, I hesitate to think about how many pounds of leg quarters, chicken thighs, ground turkey, rice, beans, potatoes I've gone through.

The main reason for adapting this diet was Angel Marie...the fiercesome American Bulldog we adopted after our part Am Bulldog, Macey, died.  I made the mistake of looking on Pet Finder (same as I did after our English Setter, Lucy, passed, and I found Ella), and spotted a beautiful white and brindle full bloodied Am Bulldog. Who knows how this dog was named Angel Marie.

I drove 1.5 hours to Ivor, VA to adopt her.  She was through a Humane Society.  Most of those are loosely organized with committed volunteers who foster these dogs, and then spend their weekends at Petsmart to try to get these dogs adopted.  Please consider donating to one of your local Humane Societies.

When I went to view Angel Marie, the foster parent was not there.  She was still en route from Newport News at an adoption event.  She arrived shortly after I did.  Her backyard was surrounded by a sturdy wooden fence, and I could hear the dogs in the back.  When she got back, she returned the unadopted to the lot.

She brought Angel out, and she walked tentatively and painfully.  She had just been treated for a severe staff infection in her feet. As I saw her walk, I could only wonder what I was getting into.  She was advertised as 5.  However, her vet work had her at 5 years old 3 years ago.  I believe that it was an honest mistake.  When I asked about it, the foster mom seemed genuinely surprised.

So there I stood, watching this dog who was in the last third of her life, suffering from food allergies and a staff infection when the foster mom said, "I understand if you don't wish to take her."  Here was this woman, devoting her time to making a home for dogs that had none.  Shame on me, if I were not to take at least one dog off her hands.  With her food allergies and her staff infection, she was currently unadoptable.

They waived the adoption fee (which I did not ask for) and they would not take my $100 donation.  "You'll need it to care for her."    I emphasized that I would care for this dog.  She would get appropriate vetting and a loving home, but she would not get an extraordinary means to lengthen her life in the event of a life threatening event.  "We understand."

There began our odyssey on homemade diet.  She thrived on the homemade diet and returned to robust health.  No allergies.  Only one incidence of a staff infection return. But after that (and until her death at the ripe old age of 12) she was healthy.

I continue to feed this diet to my dogs, and I don't think that I'll ever return to regular dog food.  The cost of feeding is no more than buying super premium dog food.  But it does require a daily time commitment over and above scooping out some kibble, and a committment every 6-8 weeks to grind the meat supply.

I currently have 2 English Setters: 13 and 15 years old.  And Dexter, a Pit Bull, who will be 7.  I credit their collective good health to making the investment in this diet.  Bully breeds often have skin issues (as Angel did), but these disappeared for her.  They never appeared for Dexter.  Ella, one of my Setters, used to get a skin rash periodically, but this too disappeared on this diet.

In another post I'll point out some highlights.  Here's Part 2.



Quilt Recipe: Cute Baby Quilt using Three Fat Quarters

I'm a big fan of the Free Spirit 20 fat quarter mystery bundle that is sold on Amazon.  You get all sorts of stuff, but I love it (and you can see from my reviews of it).  Part of the fun and creativity is how to use this economical bundle.

In one of my purchases, I had four fat quarters in David Walker's Raining Cats and Dogs fabric line.  The fabric was very cute, and I wanted to figure out a way to use it in a quilt.  After much consideration I came up with the following quilt.

This pattern was super easy, and I feel like is a wonderful way to showcase cute bright fabrics.  I don't have a quilting program, but found a freeware called Inkscape.  It is powerful (but a bit of a learning curve), and helpful way to layout quilt ideas.  I used it to optimize the fabric that I had on hand.  Below is how I was able to visualize what I wanted to do with the colors and sizes.

This quilt is made from 3 fat quarters and a background fabric.  There are 6 columns and 12 rows.  the finished block size is 3.5" x 6.5".  Cut size is 4" x 7".  I was able to get 12 blocks from each fat quarter with NO waste.  I think that 3 bright, cheerful prints works quite well.  Using the same fabric in each row created a lovely disbursement of color to my eye.  I will definitely be making more like this.

I pieced the back using a split fat quarter from the same fabric line.  I carefully pieced it so that it would look seamless.  The balance of the fabric was a 1 yard piece of fabric I had purchased from Tuesday Morning. It was in the teal blue family range.  I used white strips to provide a break.  I had originally thought to make everything perfectly balanced (equally-sized teal), but elected to let it be more organic  with a little more at the top.  The binding was from a set of colorful 2.5" precut strips that picked up the teal, orange, blue and yellow.  I love how this came together.

I created a "Quilt Recipe" for this:




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Three Fat Quarters Baby Quilt


This Quilt uses 3 bright and colorful fat quarters (with NO WASTE) plus your choice of background fabric to create a 39" x 42" quilt. Use background of your choice. Easy for beginners and showcases fabric choices.
Yield: 39.5 x 42.5" Quilt
Serves:
Ingredients
  • 1 fatqtr Fabric A Cut WOF, 4" strips; subcut into 7" lengths; QTY 12
  • 1 fatqtr Fabric B Cut WOF, 4" strips; subcut into 7" lengths; QTY 12
  • 1 fatqtr Fabric C Cut WOF, 4" strips; subcut into 7" lengths; QTY 12
  • 6 strips Fabric D (Background) Cut WOF, 4" strips; subcut into 7"' lengths; QTy 36
  • 4 2.5" strips Binding 2.5" x WOF strips for a total of ~174"
Directions
  1. This quilt is 6 rows x 12 rows of alternating blocks. Finished quilt is approximately 42.5" x 39.5". You will need
  2. Column
  3. Row 1 2 3 4 5 6
  4. 1 A D A D A D
  5. 2 D B D B D B
  6. 3 C D C D C D
  7. 4 D A D A D A
  8. 5 B D B D B D
  9. 6 D C D C D C
  10. 7 A D A D A D
  11. 8 D B D B D B
  12. 9 C D C D C D
  13. 10 D A D A D A
  14. 11 B D B D B D
  15. 12 D C D C D C
  16. A Fabric A
  17. B Fabric B
  18. C Fabric C
  19. D Fabric D (Background)
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DIY Quilt Basting Spray and Musings on Making a Quilt Sandwich

I've been quilting for about 7 months now.  In my OCD deep dive on basting methods, I ran across this blog which is a nice exposition of how to use basting spray that (drum beat, horn toot) you make yourself.  The only pricey ingredient is rubbing alcohol, and that is, well, cheap.

Here's the recipe.  You can see that I like it so well, that I put it in my Plan to Eat recipe file.



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Quilt Baste

Source: californiaquilting.blogspot.com
Serves:
Ingredients
  • 3 cups water
  • 3-4 tbsp regular flour
  • 12 tsp salt
  • 8 ounces or rubbing alcohol
  • clean spray bottle
Directions
  1. - In a pot place 2 cups of water and 1/2 tsp of salt bring to a boil and reduce to a gentle boil.
  2. - In a gravy shaker (or a jam jar) put 1 cup of cold water and 3 tbsp of flour - shake until the flour and water are combined.
  3. - Whisk the flour mixture into the gently boiling water like you are making gravy and let it cook until the consistency of gravy/egg whites/ thin gruel.
  4. - Remove from the heat and let it cool down to room temperature.
  5. - In a clean spray bottle add 8 ounces of rubbing alcohol and the cooled flour mixture, gently shake and go sandwich a quilt.
  6. (LD note: I used corn starch and it worked beautifully; I also squeezed some Elmer's glue in the bottle after using it for one quilt. Seemed to stick a bit better)
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I've used this recipe exclusively, so I have no experience on how it compares to 501 or any other products largely because it works so well, there seemed no way to improve on results.  I want to share with you my current method of making a quilt sandwich using this product.  I'm a newish quilter, so I don't present any of this as anything but what is currently working for me.

One of the most difficult things for me was getting the back squared.  I had an idiot savant thought that started out as the latter and ended up as the former.  My idea was to fold the back of the batting over the front for each side and run a sharpie against to mark the boundaries.  That way, when the quilt was flipped, the marked edge would show, and I could square things up nicely.  SAVANT!

It worked so beautifully until I applied my basting spray above.  The alcohol caused th ink to run and stain my fabric--front and back.  Thankfully it was inside the seam allowance, but it easily could have creeped further in.  IDIOT!

My second idea, is my current working modality.  After I securely baste the top of the quilt to the batting (method described below)  I run a small zig zag with colorful thread just on the outside edges.  That creates a beautiful line on the back.  I've had NO issues with puckering on the top of the quilt.  Frankly, this basting method is so secure, there is really no place for the fabric to go.  It really becomes one with the batting (just try to rip it off!) to become a unified and inseparable. More below.

Quilt Baste Method:

  • Cut batting with 3" oversize on all four sides of quilt top.
  • Center quilt top on top of batting.  
  • Iron quilt top on top of batting.  This produces a nice ironed top and relaxes wrinkles in batting.  
  • Work in 24-30 inch sections starting at one end (top or bottom of quilt). Fold the first fabric section to be adhered  back on the quilt top (right sides together).   Using a fine mist from your sprayer, spray the entire section of batting to accept your first adhesion section..
    • On larger quilts you may have to work from center to side. So long as you keep working to RADIATE towards the next section of unbasted, your material should be evenly dispersed across the batting without wrinkles.
  • Place the fabric section that you turned back on top of the sprayed batting (it will be moist), and smoothe from the center out to the sides.  I have found that hands work fine or you can use one of your ruler edges to do this. (I've done both).
  • IRON!!!   Now, I have repurposed a teflon grill mat for this next step to dry out the baste and get a good adhesion.  At the very least, I recommend using a pressing cloth.  If you choose not to use either, but make sure that you do not iron over your fabric to to the batting.  If there is any overspray that will get onto your iron.
    •  Always work from your last area to virgin area, from center to edges.  Once this stuff sticks, it sticks.  That means that if you've made an adhesion error (read:  wrinkle), you'll have a devil of a time getting it out.  If you pull your fabric up, you'll have adhered batting.  You could spray with water, but I'm not sure how that would work.  Best not to have to look for alternative methods...with reasonable care you will not have to. But I know first hand that pulling it up will remove batting.  (Whahhh!)
  • Now that you have one section completed, that will serve as your anchor. Fold back your fabric  onto to the basted portion (right sides together) revealing that boundary between your plowed (basted) field to your unplowed (unbasted)  field of remainder basting.  Where it is stuck shows your starting line for your next section.  Continue with basting, unfolding, smoothing, ironing from last basted edge to the unbasted remainder. 
  • Now step back and admire your work.  Have a drink and do the same to the other side.
  • After my TOP is secured, I run a small zig zag on the very outside edge of my quilt top.  I put a colored thread in the bobbin.  That way when I flip my quilt to basted the back, I can perfectly see my edges 

Some more comments/tips:

  • If you don't have a good spray bottle, get one.  I've had NO issues with clogging.
  • Pressing Cloth...mentioned above, mentioned again.  I use a teflon grill mat which is great for using on your ironing board as protection when you glue baste.  It is slick, slick, slick, and your iron will glide over if you use as pressing aid.  Warning, it gets hot.
  • Will this clog my needle/thread?  No.  But you have to ensure that the product is dry, and your hot iron and/or time, will ensure both.   I do lots of glue basting to include this method of quilt basting, and I've not had any problems.
  • Will unused product go bad?  I've had unused product for more than 30 days.  I've seen reported that mold grows.  I've not had that problem.  Further, I'm unsure how it would with the alcohol content....you are adding 8 oz of alcohol to 3 cups of water...so that is a 25% alcohol content.  I don't think that mold can grow in that anymore than it can grow in your liquour.  It is not a hospitable environment.
  • I put the cornstarch, salt and water in the microwave.   It works well.  Do not add alcohol until your cooking is done.
  • Cool your product before putting in spray bottle with alcohol.  Otherwise it is still producing steam and it will squirt out of your bottle (or melt it).
  •  If you hold up your batting sections to create more of a vertical surface, you might avoid some overspray.  Or consider using a cardboard shield.
  • Will it come unstuck over time if I'm not ready to quilt?  I've not had that problem.


Nature Walk

We live surrounded by beautiful woods.  Mark and I took a walk back in our woods.  We were noticing newly fallen trees (a rich part of any ecosystem in the woods).  As we were walking back up to the house I saw a pile of feathers, then a head.  It was a newly killed red tailed hawk.  Nearby was a fallen tree on which the rest of the hawk's body had been devoured.  It was similar to other bird kills (song birds) where we would see a pile of feathers a remnant beak.

Hawks are pretty high on the food chain. We have bald eagles, barred owls and great horned owls.  Not sure which was the predator, but it was efficiently dispatched.

A reminder that nature while beautiful is not hospitable at times.  Eat or be eaten.

Quilting with Jeanne

Happily, Jeanne has provided a wealth of quilting videos to help those of us learning how to machine quilt.  You can find her here.  Sadly, Jeanne has passed.  I looked her up on the internet to find that she was about an hour from me, but I also stumbled upon her obituary.

While there is much about the internet that is just "stuff in the sausage casing" there is also much that is posted that inspires and educates us.  Jeanne's quilting videos do just that.  They are not glamorous videos.  They are the videos of pithy content: a teacher's inspiration and patient, repetitive exposition.

The hurdles of a beginner quilter are many, but  of short duration, so long as one is eager to ferret out the root of errors. Once one goes through the process of putting a quilt together, the matter of quilting it becomes a another hurdle.

One design that Jeanne demonstrates is making poppies.This method is somewhat different than what she generates in another lesson. However, try it (and look because I'm too lazy to find the other).  I use this for my girl baby quilts along with others. Jeanne is a consummate teacher.  Check out her other videos on feathers and the like.

Jeanne, you are gone, but I sent this heartfelt message out to the Universe: Thank you for sharing your craft with us.

Finished Quilt - Piper Girls Daisy Baby Quilt

Here's another Daisy Baby Quilt (Piper Girls free pattern).  Still needs some more quilting within the white blocks, but I ran out of white thread--it's on the way.  I quilted diagonally (in the ditch) of all the blocks, and limited free motion quilting to the white squares and side/corner triangles.  I used 2.5" strips for the colored blocks (purchased at Tuesday Morning for $3.47).  I also used my strip production method as I described in this post. It is a huge time saver and increases accuracy.  My blocks were perfect and my piecing was perfect as well.  I glue basted all of my points.  All seams are pressed to the background.  To keep points flat, I clipped the corners which enable the seams to to be flat on the back (always to background--which takes the twist out of the seam allowance).

The border is a gray on gray print, and the back is a Dear Stella (White Day Break Starburst).  I purchased it at $2.99 a yard on line.  I have an affinity for gray--the perfect neutral blend of white and black.


I have been using a 2.5" border, but 2.25" would have worked better.  I folded it over to take some of the width out, with okay results.  But all of my diamonds line up beautifully.  I used 5 colors in the strips and a white backgrounds.  I used the top row as my metric for successive diamond placement taking the 3rd diamond from each row and starting the the next row and repeating the top row sequence.  It's a brainless way to have lovely, even distribution of blocks.

My free motion quilting is improving. I have a long way to go, but I'm not embarrased by it.  Practice builds mastery.