Kenmore 117.812: Part I

 Update + Preamble:  If you need a high quality manual for this/similar machine I copied a manual for a 117.551 that I received from the purchase of some Greist Rotary attachments made for this machine.  You can download here --similar in every aspect but the needle stitch selector (mine has a screw that locks the width).  I copied the manual in 600dpi.

I frequently peruse Craigslist sewing machine offerings.  There are all manner of things offered, and I don't see too many things of interest.  However, yesterday I found this Kenmore 117.812,




According to an information source on the web (here's a link to searsarchives.com which will download the pdf of all Kenmore machines), it is a 1948 Kenmore Rotary Deluxe machine.  It does one thing:  straight stitch.  The machine came in a wooden box with a thick leather handle, as were made for suitcases.  The handwheel turns away from you.  It has a stitch length adjustment and goes backwards.  It is a rotary hook, not an oscillating hook like most machines.  It is driven by a motor that has a rubber wheel that sits flush against the turn wheel.  It also has a bobbin pully wheel that winds the bobbin.  To use, simply disengage the clutch by turning toward you and holding the handwheel firmly.  

Though the machine had been serviced in the spring, and I could see the gears underneath the machine had been greased freshly, there was some friction that developed rather quickly after my sewing for less than 10 minutes.  

I went to the garage (with supplication for Mr. Snake Man to not surprise me.....Mark spied a snake in the garage...which has NEVER happened before. My hope is that he exited as we left the door open to allow him a graceful exodus) and got some PB Blaster.  I tilted the machine to expose the undercarriage and sprayed every place that moved.  Within 10 minutes everything was working quietly and smoothly.  I reapplied oil to everything.

The machine is not large.  It takes different feet...top clamp.  Basically a two pronged fork that fits over the shank and a round screw that secures it.  The foot that came with it is a perfect 1/4" foot.  Using this for quilting will be a pleasure.

I certainly did not need another machine, but I wanted to get one that would do heavier duty work while only straight stitching.


Upcycling

 Oh yes, "upcycling" is the new, big thing.  You Tube has many great vids/contributors on the glories of upcycling.  I've been a "thrifter" for decades.  Of course, thrift stores were not as ubiquitous "then" as they are "now".  Thrifting satisfies our hunter, gather impulses--without breaking the bank. Plus the monies that go to charitable stores support great causes (in addition to feeding our impulses).  

I recently had a chance to go to one of my favorite thrift shops--CHKD:  Children's Hospital of the King's Daughters. It is an old organization, founded in 1901 by women who cared for indigent children known as "King's Daughters".  Their thrift stores contribute $2mil annually to their causes.  

I have found some really cool stuff there.  With Covid, I've been not done much foraging, but did so yesterday.  For the small some of $20, (I got a senior citizen discount of 25% off), I got

  • 3 100% cotton king-sized Sheets.  I 'm going to line shopping bags with these.  
  • 3 sets of 100% cotton duck, tabbed curtains.  Great fabric to make aprons, shopping bags.
  • about 3 yards of a vintage Waverly "Yew Too" print...green topiary on blue and white stripes.  Again...shopping bags or other bag like stuff.
  • A large damask table cloth...you got it...bag interiors.

I've already made 2 aprons from the duck.  I took one of my favorite aprons, folded it in half and traced it out with the seam allowances on some Pelon pattern fabric. I love that stuff...so much easier to work with than paper.  I just placed it on the fold of the fabric and it was so easy...particularly since I used the pre-hemmed piece of the curtains.

Though I have several aprons, but due to their use over these many years, they are a tad 'ratty'.  I always cook with an apron, and I like to where one when I clean.  So now I have a "newer" one. It was nice to have a maiden voyage.

The second apron I made for my sister in law. I made her a utility apron...something that she can wear when she gardens. 

It was fun to imagine and execute on possibilities AND  support one of my favorite causes.


CrossBody Bag

 

I found this wonderful video for a cross-body bag on You Tube by Kay Whitt.  With my burgeoning stash of fat quarters AND some home fashion fabric that I likely will not do anything with, I thought making some cross-body bags would be a simple and useful thing to make.


I made the one to the right which turned out nicely.  However, after I made it, I elected to make another some other modifications that are different that Kay's. First, I added a 3/4 pocket to the back.  Second, I added a pocket to the interior. I will not add a pocket in future makes, because the interior is so flat, there is no need for such. However, I would NEVER make another bag without the 3/4 pocket on the back.

It's a pretty straightforward bag to make--and perfect for stashing essentials while not weighing you down.  I put a small aluminum spring clip on the outside so that I can clip my mask to the bag.  

I'll warn that the opening is 6" and is not all that big.  So if you are a  big-wallet person, it is not going to be all that easy to get in and out of the bag.  You'll then get frustrated in using the bag. My wallet is not big, but it felt stuffed in the opening, and was not all that easy to get out when I was at the checkout counter!  (I'll note that it fits nicely in my 3/4 pocket on the back. Even though I had a smaller wallet, I found it awkward. Of course you could make the bag bigger. A better alternative is to have a stash and go wallet where you can have your essentials and not add weight to your grab and go bag experience.





The Little Zippered Bag

 I used to write systematically.  I would get up in the a.m....early .... and begin writing.  As Jose Ortega Y Gasset said, "Writing is the policeman of the mind."  The act of writing is organizing the chaos of the brain.  I think that applies to "makers" as well.  I've always done some sort of making, and I attest that it forces the brain to take concept to concrete.

I write the above mostly as a reminder that I should write daily.

 

I have a growing stash of fat quarters.  I purchase them from Amazon.  For about $22 you get 20 fat quarters which are part of the Free Spirit Mystery bundle that comes in and out of stock. (Other places sell this for double).  You get all sorts of things from Free Spirit designers.  I can honestly say, that I've seen some the lovely and loathsome fabric in these bundles.  Never fear.

Some of the fabric is so odd that you have to wonder what to do with it.  I had some 30 year old zippers (and the price was still attached).  Zippers cost the same now as they did then.  I decided that I would try my hand at making a little zippered bag...fully lined.  

I also wanted to experiment with sewing with Perle Cotton. I wound some turquoise Perle Cotton on the bobbin and put some widely spaced (too wide really!) quilting on the bag.  Fat quarters are the perfect size for making bags of any sort.  I took one of the odd quarters and thought it would make a cute bag.  I'm so glad that I undertook this skill-building exercise.  Gladder still that there is the fraternity of You Tubers who generously share how to make such a bag.

So after watching a few vids, I embarked on making the little bag above.  That odd fabric made a cute bag.  I gifted it to a friend of mind who was hosting an outdoor happy hour.  she loved it.

And then I made the second bag out of gorgeous bright fabric.  That, too, was gifted.  I also made a third and fourth.  I'll make many more, but the idea is that for the price of a zipper and a fat quarter, and less than an hour of your time, you can make a simple little bag to use as a hostess gift, or to fill with goodies (in a Ziploc), lotions, kitchen gadgets.  

The hardest part about making these bags is to remember to open the !@#$^@%$& zipper before sewing the outer fabric together. (If you forget, just grab the zipper tab through the outside part of the bag...the thicker your bag, the harder that is).  The bag gets turned through the zipper and through the inside lining. So if you are on auto pilot, you could easily forget and leave the zipper closed or sew all the way around your inside lining.  For the latter problem, your seam ripper is your friend.

Supplies are simple:  Outer fabric, inner fabric, zip, batting (fusible or non, if not fusible, quilt it) thread scissors.  Boxing the corners is an easy skill and will open up the bag.

 My sister has been undergoing some stress (as have many).  I made a larger format bag for her in a beautiful metallic gold peacock designed fabric.  I quilted it with some lovely embroidery thread (poly).  I gave it to her as a "worry bag".  Put you worries in it and forget about it.

Why not consider making your own?

 











My New Go-To Baby Quilt-- Four Patch and Feature Fabric Baby Quilt


                                                                 

I entered  the world of quilting to make baby quilts for the multitude of babies that were coming into our lives from my daughter's, son's and our own friends.  By making these quilts, I was developing and advancing my quilting skills.

There is no shortage of cute fabric for baby quilts, and I've made several different types of quilts. Several of them much more elaborate than needed...but I was trying to figure things out...and learning by doing cannot be underestimated.

Most recently I was at an impasse on what do do with some cute elephant fabric.  I had one idea...did some cutting and laying out and ended up with a big fat NOPE!  

After that false start, I settled on this simple pattern.  It is alternating blocks of a 4 patch in two colors and a single, featured fabric.  In this rendition, the 4 patch is tan and white and the featured fabric is a cute elephant print. 

If you choose your featured fabric first, you simply have to decide on 2 coordinating fabrics to make your 4 patch.  So no tough decisions to make. I've made several other renditions with gray and white 4 patch and a green/blue gingham check and white 4 patch.  Both equally lovely.  I used a darker green..but though it coordinated, I felt it overpowered. Because the 4 patches are assembled using width of fabric strips paired together for each color, they are easy to sew, press and subcut.  A great project for your sewing happy hour...you can drink your favorite beverage, watch your favorite show and make something cute!

Do watch the orientation of the 4 patch...I reversed a couple in another quilt...but I just left it.  If you are accurate with your cutting and sewing, everything should line up nicely.  This is not a fiddly pattern.

This quilt measures 36"x36" square.  Quilt Recipe is below. 



 



Print Recipe

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Quick Baby Quilts with 4 Patch and Featured Fabric.

Simple baby quilt with 6 rows and 6 columns of 6" finished blocks alternating between a 4 patch of coordinating fabrics with your chosen featured fabric.

Source: Leisa

Yield: 36 x 36" Quilt

Serves:

Ingredients

  • 3 6.5" WOF Featured Fabric Subcut to 6.5" (you will need 18 and may need to cut additional blocks)
  • 3 3.5" WOF Background A paired with B Strip
  • 3 3.5" WOF Background B Paired with A Strip
  • Extra 6.5 cut additional to achieve 18 blocks
  • Extra A+B cut additional as needed to achieve 18 4- patches

Directions

  • To make 4 Patch:
  • Choose fabrics that have sufficient contrast with each other and are harmonious with your featured fabric.
  • For each pair of A/B strips: Sew length-wise with scant 1/4"' seam. Press seam to darker fabric. You will have 3 sets.
  • Subcut each paired set to 3.5" rectangles (for 6" finished block).
  • **Note the direction you want your 4 patch--darker block far left or lighter block far left. Make sure that you maintain this layout when sewing to Featured fabric.
  • Line up one block with light/dark square on top and the second block with dark/light square on bottom. Sew 1/4" seam. Press blocks. (Direction does not matter as it will be sewn to non-seamed block.) You will end up with 18 blocks measuring 6.5" square (for 6" finished).
  • Featured Fabric
  • Cut 6.5" strips, WOF. Subcut to 6.5".
  • Layout Quilt:
  • Layout 6 rows of alternating blocks. Mind the orientation of your 4 patch blocks--they are easy to turnaround!
  • 4P=4 patch FF=Featured Fabric
  • R1 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF
  • R2 FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P
  • R3 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF
  • R4 FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P
  • R5 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF
  • R6 FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P
  • Sew complete rows. Then sew each row together matching seams. (Pin as needed). I like to glue baste
  • Make quilt sandwich using your favorite method. For quick quilting, simply stitch in the ditch (and carry through the middle of your 6" finished blocks.You can use a decorative thread and an "S" stitch over your ditches.

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Juki MCS 1500 Coverstitich

I have an August birthday (a big round one!).  In July, I decided to give myself a "Christmas in July" AND early big bday birthday present by gifting myself a Juki MCS 1500 Coverstitch machine.

If  you look inside any hem of your knit garments/tshirts, you will see the benefit of a coverstitch machine.  It creates a 1, 2, or 3 needle stretch stitch that will give your garment a professional look.  In this blog post I wrote about the knit tank dress that I made...out of children's fabric no less.  I was dissatisfied with the finish of the hems.  I don't care for zig zagged top stitching, and twin needle has it's own issues.  No, I decided then that I needed a coverstitch.

I made dress # 2 out of knit, but I measured my arm/and neck bands incorrectly.  Too snug, but still comfortable...and the finish was fine.  

Dress #3 was the winner.  I learned from my mistakes in dress #2, and I ended up with a beautiful red with cream polka dot dress that is beautifully made (looks store bot), pretty on and comfortable.  I am glad to have all three.  What is not to love about a dress that you throw over your head and is soft against your skin and doesn't bind anywhere.  

It has been nice to make things for myself again.  I even tried my hand at making....underwear.  Would have never thought to have done so.  I've made two pairs, and I have a little technique development underwear.  But I have two pairs of panties that fit well and are comfortable.  The finishing, though, needs a little better work. The modal fabric was not easy to work with...so I have to practice my material handling methods.

I have a nice trifecta of machines with my sewing (2) , serger and coverstitch.  I'm glad I have a second regular sewing machine.  My newer machine is in for service and it looks like the total time will be a month.  I'm back sewing on my trusty Bernina 910--.




Sewing for Self

I started sewing when I was 27...forced into it really because I was pregnant and a professional. There were not very many maternity fashions suitable for women professionals. I decided that I would teach myself how to sew to make attractive maternity jumpers to go with my bow blouses! I didn't have a sewing machine.  I bought a Bernina 910 Electronic.  It was a large purchase, but one that I justified with the money that I saved sewing for myself.  There is no question that was achieved.

I bought beautiful wool gabardines that you can wear 3 seasons, really, in black and navy.  I didn't know much about fit or anything else. Worse, I was under the impression that pattern sizes (although they had the measurements) followed traditional garment sizes).  Wrong! I still remember how tight the armholes were! But I was intrepid, and I forged ahead tackling reasonable projects around the home such as simple curtains, etc.

When my daughter was older, I redeployed to making her attractive, high quality knit tank dresses and lovely corduroy jumpers and even a collared dress.  I don't recall when I added my serger (maternity or post maternity).  My Bernette 334DS (made by Juki I only recently came to learn), helped me sew through knits and professionally finish seams.  I only recently resurrected it from a closet where it has lived for about 2 decades!  It has been serviced and is ready to go.

Thinking about those tank dresses led me to desire one for myself.  I found some red with white polka dots and white with blue polka dots, but I elected to use this children's fabric to make my first tank dress.  I made a V neck Tank Dress, and I have to say that I was out of practice.  The pattern called for arm and neck bands, neither of which I made before.  Luckily the internet is repleted with how-to's something I did not have the benefit of way back when. 

My tank dress fit comfortably.  The material is thin, so it is not something I would wear out and about.  But as a dress to wear at home or as a bathing suit cover up, or even to sleep in, it is just perfect.  It was fun to make, and it is ENORMOUSLY comfortable to wear.  Soft, non-binding and cool--and a cheerful fabric that makes me smile.