Winter Friends Visiting

Virginia is an overwintering place for several bird species.  I have my year-round friends, red-bellied woodpecker (yes, they have red on the belly), tufted titmouse, cardinal, carolina wren, eastern blue birds, goldfinches (who don their olive drab coats in the winter), nuthatch, chickadee, hairy + downey woodpeckers, pileated woodpecker (though they are elusive), red-tailed hawk, and barred owls.  

In the winter,  the population of birds increases for the birds looking for a winter respite (though summertime friends leave).  The hermit thrush (singular), yellow-rumped warbler (handful), white-throated sparrow (flock), rose-finch (flock), brown creeper (singular) and yellow-bellied woodpecker (singular) (yes, they have yellow on their belly) and red-breasted nuthatch come to visit.  We put seed and homemade suet out.  I also have fresh mealworms that I raise.  I did not spy the brown creeper last year, but spied him a few days ago.  I've not seen the YB woodpecker last year, or this year yet.  I'm keeping an eye out.  As you can see, I may only have one specimen of a bird type, or a hungry hoard! The pine warblers are  year round, but I generally do not see them until they come to eat the suet and mealworms.

I put my suet in a rat wire contraption.  That offers some level of squirrel deterrent--though I've seen them try to claw and lick to get to the contents.  It beats their scampering off with a giant ball of suet!  You have to admire the problem solving ability coupled with determination of the rodent mind!  

I do put stuff out for the squirrels.  They have plenty of acorns this year.  They had nothing last year, so food insecurity was high for both them and the deer.  There is a bit of hypocrisy about feeding birds, and not allowing hungry rodents to have a nibble or two.  

I keep fresh water on the deck rail.  The birds enjoy an non-frozen drink as do the squirrels.  Both the junco and the hermit thrush will sit on the deck rail and absorb the sun.  It is funny to see a bird sit still for so long, but they do.

The white-throated sparrows have an enclave in a thicket of vines.  In the cold VA mornings (balmy compared to the northern climes) they are perched on the branches absorbing the sun.  They love seeds.  The yellow-rumped warblers eat the suet as do the bluebirds, who do not eat seeds.  Seeds, suet and mealworms offers a little something for everyone.  

Washing dishes, I can look out the window and see all of my friends enjoying their food.  I is a joyful part of the day.

True Grit or Home Dryer Repair

 I have an old pair of stackable Kenmore (Whirlpool) washer and dryers.  Thanks to YouTube, we (with considerable cajoling for my husband) can easily see the necessary steps in a repair, order parts and make things work. It is not without considerable cussin' and fussin' on the part of one in my household.

The felt lining in my dryer drum ended up tearing.  It is an essential part of the dryer in that it serves as a gasket  that keeps hot air in the drum and lint and "stuff" from escaping the drum into the cabinet.  (E.g. it funnels to the lint screen).  Well, it failed prior to our feeling like we had the time to fix it (though I had the part).  And the "stuff" ended up escaping an causing buildup of lint in the cabinet which fried the heating element. I had already cleaned the area knowing this would happen, but it needed greater frequency.

The drum felt replacement is not so hard, but it is a pain.  A dryer is but a drum that is supported by a cast of things that keep air hot, keep air circulating and spin the dryer.  Not complicated.  But it is sheet metal, and there are lots of opportunities to get banged up and cut, so gloves a necessity.

We accomplished it over a period of two days of intermittent working on it.  A professional could likely do it in a couple of hours.  All told it probably took us double that.    But given that a new dryer is $1,000 (which would have the features that I would want), our spending some of our time an less than  $50 on parts made it worthwhile.


BirdFish

I'm enjoying learning about Inkscape.  I was teaching myself how to draw petals using elliptical manipulation of circles.  Then I decided that I wanted to make a template for an orange peel.  I did that.  I also wanted to understand hands on manipulation for two or more objects using path commands for union, combine, ...etc.

I ended up with at birdfish.

BirdFish

Brown Betty: a/k/a my Kenmore 117.812

 This could also be called an "Ode to a Vintage Sewing Machine"


Brown Betty is what I call my Kenmore.  I have had her about 2 1/2 months.  I love her.  She does one thing and one thing only:  straight stitch.  She is my go-to machine for quilt piecing because she has a perfect 1/4" foot and pulls fabric through evenly.  

Did you know?  These straight stitch machines can be a wonderful addition to your sewing room.  Let me list the ways:

  • sport a straight stitch plate:  no oversized opening to black hole your fabric;
    • the cost of buying a straight stitch plate for your machine would fund part of your purchase of a vintage machine;
  • make beautiful, even stitches; and
  • serve as a backup machine when your newer machine needs to get serviced.
  • require very little serve and are quite heavy duty
  • have a presser foot pressure knob that allow you to make adjustments that I don't have on my Bernina 910.
  • This machine is light weight enough to take to a class (I've never been to a class, and I doubt that I would) and costs a fraction of a Featherweight. 

Some cons:  

  • not all vintage machines have a backstitch.
  • many vintage machines do not allow you to lower the feed dogs.

I purchased Brown Betty locally, and even though she is 73 years young (1948), she will still be going strong long after I'm gone.

The beauty of these simplistic, highly utilitarian machines is that there is not much to go wrong.  It needs oiling much more often than regular machines, but everything is easily accessible.  The top has oil parts where "a little dab will do you".  Simply hinging the machine backwards exposes the under carriage. Any place that moves...oil.

My machine came to me already having been "serviced" by the dealer.  But, it froze up after 15 minutes of sewing.  A simple service of greasing a machine that has not been used in decades (if ever, it was in mint condition), was not enough.

I went through it with Kroil and then lubricated everything with sewing machine oil.  She purrs like a kitten.  Her motor is growly--not do to a service need as I could here same on a YouTube vid where this machine was serviced.



Mistyfuse--Use in Quilt Binding and Quilt Sandwich

 I'm interesting in doing more art quilting/applique.  I read many positive things about Misty Fuse, and I thought that I would give it a try.  I bought ten yards of it (20" wide).  Seems like alot, but it is gossamer! So it it comes in a smallish package that is still light as a feather.  

There are many things to like about it as was reading on line.  And while many use it for art quilting and applique (and indeed that was the genesis of my interest), all I could think about was..."Hmm, this would be good for quilt basting."  I followed up with doing a search.

I found one blog where there was an older post, where the blogger used the entire package of Misty Fuse on a quilt.  The Quilt Skipper, wrote a thoughtful post here. This method uses squares placed fist width apart.  

💡My own idea *hypothesis* about it was to cut 1/2 width strips and ladder them.  I had 4 baby quilt tops made that needed to be sandwich-ed up!  I use a homemade basting spray (HBS) that I originally found on California Quilts.  It is inexpensive and pretty effective.  I cannot compare it to the commercial basting spray, because I'm too cheap to buy such.  

Using the HBS, I spray the batting, and then I iron to dry it.  Occasionally, I'll 'reinforce' with some dabs of Elmer's washable school glue.  It takes a lot of ironing to dry it out.  It is time consuming.

I decided to give my Mistyfuse quilt basting hypothesis a test on the baby quilt tops that I had fastened to my design wall.  (All 4 of them).  I cut my strips 1/2" wide.  Beginning at the edge of the quilt top, I laid them out lengthwise with each subsequent row about  3-4" below the next.

While Mistyfuse has "Goddess Sheets" that are teflon-coated fiberglass, I elected to get the cheaper ones from Amazon.  I got 10 large sheets for $16--a fraction of the cost of one Goddess Sheets.  I found these sheets to be perfect for my intended use.  They also make a great regular ole pressing sheet.  They are NOT waterproof, which means steam will go through them.  (But you don't use steam with misty fuse).

My quilt top was easily secured.  I did same with the back.  I then quilted my quilt.  My batting allows a 10" gap between seams.  My blocks are 6" finished, so I just quilted in the ditch.  These are baby quilts meant to be cute and functional.  So I don't spend a lot of time doing any fancy quilting.

Using Mistyfuse allowed my quilt finishing to be both quick and enjoyable.  Because of its gossamer qualities, the feel of the quilt is not altered either for your hand or your sewing.  Because of its gossamer properties, it can float about, and it is hard to see!

Binding: I do not hand sew my quilt binding.  Rather, I attach the binding to the back, and then pull it around to the front. I then use a reversed blanket stitch.  I really like the look of it and it beautifully holds down the edge.  I adopted the method after tiring of binding on the back not getting caught etc.  Sewing on the front, I KNOW that all of the edges are perfectly stitched down. I used Mistyfuse to adhere the binding onto the front.  It took time, but I had a much more satisfactory effort.  The binding attached flat and securely.

I've plenty of product left.  But I did spring for a 100 yard roll!  I was so delighted that I was able to complete 4 quilt tops without any muss or fuss.  The 10 yard roll cost 30% more than the 100 yard roll.  I'll take that $70 savings, though it is an expensive outlay initially. 


 

 


Fabric Purchases


 I enjoying purchasing fabric, but the costs can add up.  Accordingly, I approach fabric purchasing as I would any endeavor:  bargain shop.  

My bargain shopping is not finding cheap stuff cheap but GREAT stuff Cheap(er) than retail.  Many of the baby quilts that I have made are from high quality fabric discounted.  Tuesday Morning was a favorite place to shop pre-COVID.  I've not been there in a while.  Their fabric is hit or miss...but it can be a big hit.

Hancock's of Paducah and Fabric.com are two other places I go.  Hancock's used to have $3.99 fabrics pre-COVID, but no longer.  Even then, $4.99 is a bargain.  Hancock's also has a print grab bag where you get at least 4 yards of fabric for the price of $4 per yard.  You will get smaller and larger pieces, but you get some cool stuff!  Amazon's 20 pc fat quarters from Free Spirit (now$25) is an excellent value.  But you will get a hodge podge of things, but great for your stash.  They are also great to make zippered bags.

Free shipping is also something that most offer...some with smaller minimums than others..but even if you don't meet the minimum, it is like $5.  

One reason I undertook making baby quilts, is I felt that it was an approachable means of developing my quilting skills.  I started with just basic sewing skills.

When I see high quality fabrics on sale, I buy them.  I buy white and gray fabric on the bolt, because I use those colors in lots of things.  I buy batting on the roll because it is more cost effective (though an outlay).  If I see prints that I like I will get quite a bit.  With my go-to baby quilt, a 4 patch with a featured fabric, I can quickly make a cute baby quilt.  I'm not going for heirloom, just fun and utility.


This fabric works for boy or girls quilts, and I could pair it with some teal and white chevron that I found on sale at a ridiculously low price. It makes a great quilt backing.  

I recently found this Charm Bees.

Well at $3 a yard and free shipping (I saw it on Fabric.com, but they sell it on Amazon too with free shipping).  I can put that on the back of a baby quilt, use it as binding, or make it into a quilt top that would be both colorful and stimulating for a baby.  And I have a grab bag of black and white fabric from Kona in another grab bag, and I'm sure can find a way to make something fun.


Sewing Room "Stuff": Stacking Letter Trays

 

Amazon has these 5 bins for $22.  I bought them .99 a piece at my local thrift store.  I think that you could find them at the Dollar Store, too. 

 I bought them because I thought they would make great sewing project baskets.  They work wonderfully for holding blocks that you have cut and pieced.  I found these to be a great way to move blocks that I have glue basted to my sewing machine.  They are lightweight (flimsy) but perfect for my intended use.  

If you have more than one project, you can stack them; otherwise, you can just nest them.

But whatever you do, do not pay 4.25+ a piece for them.

I currently have a baby quilt project for which I have cut the 6.5" blocks that are in one stack.  All of my 4 patches have been cut (I used long strips sewn in pairs, and then cut down).  I just need to press them open and sew them.  An index card in the basket is a great way to identify the project and the next steps when you just have a few minutes to sew. 



New Baby Quilt + Fun with Triangles

 I wrote about my learning Inkscape (that learning is ongoing), and using the project of a baby quilt to provide concrete means of understanding basic concepts.

I settled on the following pattern


Here is my finished quilt top:


I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.  My final swap of the cornerstone fabrics to the solid v. another color might have been rethought--to the point that I should have just put a solid border around it in the peach fabric and rid myself of the "V blocks" in the diamond rows.   Basically, it is a my maiden voyage for this pattern.  I do like the movement in it...and as I type, I realize that one of my HST's is turned incorrectly!  Well that is a "one wonky block" quilt.  PFFTTT! (Update:  New skillbuilder:  ripping out a block and reinserting.  It was not so bad!) Besides learning Inkscape, this quilt was a skill builder for me in nailing the diamonds and the triangle in square.  I'd like to write a bit about both of these blocks.

Diamond in Rectangle:  I see many patterns that use two triangle in square units to make the diamond..  Personally, I don't like that look. I have Deb Tucker's specialty ruler Diamond Rects.  It gives you the ability to make several sized diamonds that you cut from prescribed width strips.  It is that easy.  The diamond is the middle part.  You then have to measure, cut sew 4 sides.  Lastly you have to trim.  I consider this tool a must have.  You will have perfect blocks, and there is very little waste.

When making the side angles, her method, again, prescribes a rectangle size.  Her ruler gives the cut lines to apply to your rectangle to cut it so that you get two mirrored halves.  You can stack your fabric layers (right sides or wrong sides together) to cut very efficiently.   You then have generous room to place side setting triangle on each of the 4 sides of the diamond.  However, this stuff only works with a full diamond.

How to chain piece:  I will share that I glue baste these in place.  I don't worry about bias because the glue will stabilize the bias on the 2 pieces.  I glue one side, (top right) and then I glue the obverse side, (bottom left).  I then chain piece all the top rights, then the lefts.  I then set seams and press open.  The work with top left and bottom right glue basting.  Then sew. Then press.

After the final press, it is time to square up the blocks.  This is easily done with her ruler.  You will get a perfect 1/4" seam allowance, and your block will be perfectly sized with very little waste. There are videos.  You will be happy.

 Tri Tool Ruler:  Again, lots of videos on this tool.   To make triangle in square, the Tri Tool Ruler is invaluable because it has the right angle for the cut (64 degrees).  HOWEVER, it does require lots of fussy notching, and your 1/4 inch seam better be scant and straight.  There is no squaring up. After experiencing the EASE of Deb Tucker's ruler on the side triangles for the diamond, I thought that I would use her rectangle cut in half (at the correct 63" angle) method as a good way to make these.  I would be able to use one part of her ruler to true up my block at the spikey tip to give a perfect 1/4" at the top and the right side.  I would then flip the block and finish off with my final measurement for this block:  3.5" square. That 2nd square up took care of bottom and the left side.  Using the rectangles that are then split into side triangles is SO MUCH EASIER than using the companion sides of the Tri-Tool for every cut.  I'd rather get twice as many with one cut, wouldn't you?  And I'm able to square them up beautifully with Deb's ruler and not worry about those little notches.

When adopting new methods, you'd better make a mock up.  I learned this after making 24 beautiful, square 3 1/4" blocks.  I was a wee bit short.  This happened because of the (1) blunt tip on the TriTool ruler paired with a different method for cutting/attaching side angles.  Always mock up or you will be mopping up tears.

My second problem, (fleeting as I tested it) is I thought I could use my 60 degree ruler.  Hah!  NO! --but I only did this for one block as a mock up.   My third problem, I had to do a mockup to make sure that I had the correct rectangle width and length to give correct coverage that would allow for (1) easy sewing and (2) optimized waste when trimming).  I found that I could use Deb Tucker's width, but I had to add about 1/4" to my length.  I was very pleased with my perfect results.  If you examine my final quilt, you will see that there are perfect points and perfect matching. And I was surprised.

Let me demonstrate through "Fun with Triangles"--or hot time with Pythagoras.  It is worth taking note of this 'stuff' as it will give you lots of confidence to measure and cut your own blocks without relying on others.  I highly recommend your going here (Math Planet) to refresh your gray cells. You will be glad that you did.

There are several different types of triangles used in quilting.  Dig deep into the recesses of your high school brain and conjure up geometry.  A triangle has 3 angles, the total of which must add up to 180 degrees.

  • Equilateral Triangle:  An equilateral triangle has 3 equal angles of 60 degrees.  60 x 3 = 180.  The length of each of the sides is the same.  It is constructed using a circle v. a square (for our final triangle).  Draw a circle.  Halve it, then quarter it.  The triangle is built by drawing a line across the last  Accordingly, your 60 degree ruler will create these in (m)any sizes subject to the ruler size...except know that you can butt another ruler to it and extend your cuts.

 

  
Equilateral Triangle


Equilateral Triangle Construct.


You can see the drafting of such a triangle above.

  •  Right Triangle:  As square cut on at the diagonal is ONE FORM of a right triangle.  Because all sides are equal you can rely on 1.414 multiplied by the side length to be the measure of the diagonal.  You might want to now the measure of a diagonal for your square in square in square in square blocks.  (P. S.  to calculate what to cut, measure the side that you are trying to fit, add 1/2" seam allowance and then multiply that by 1.414.  Round up to the nearest 1/8th.  Now have at it!).  You will NEVER have to rely on the kindness of strangers again for these computations. 

Tip💡 For Lemonyne/Lone Star quilt blocks. you would use this formula to calculate sides of adjoining blocks for setting in.  

 
Your friendly (and ubiquitous) HST is an example of a right triangle. Because it is a square cut in half, and we know that each corner of a square is 90 degrees, that each side of a square is equal.  Accordingly, we know that OTHER two angles must be (180-90)/2) or 45 degrees.


  • Triangle in Square (TIS) a/k/a Tri-Rec but I do not know why:  This triangle has interesting attributes:  The straight line of the triangle (base) is as wide as the triangle is tall.  The straight side and height have to be the same because it is a triangle in a square. The base is one side of a square, and the other three sides must be ...the same! 
Now we have the matter of angles. Here is my TIS. The tip of the triangle is drawn from the middle of the square to the corner diagonal. 

Triangle in Square with Degree

See that angle?  It is 63 degrees.  You see, this is the evil-twinish triangle--almost the same, but slightly different!  That, my friend, is why your 60 degree ruler will not work. Sniff! (1)
 
If that angle is 63, then the other two angles must be (180-63)/2 or 58.5.  If those angles are 58.5, then the companion angle for the corner (all corners are 90 degrees) is 31.5 for the side triangle.  We already know that the side triangle has a 90 degree, now we know that it has a 31.5 degree angle, so the other angle must be 180-90-31.5 or 58.5 (and that makes sense because of some geometry rule about companion complementary angles that I don't remember looked up.)
 
It is also so elegant and symmetrical it brings a tear to my eye.
 
 
And for the grand finale, here is an overlay.  The triangle in square is on the bottom, and the equilateral triangle, is in pink on top.



Triangle in Square v. Equilateral Triangle


 

(1)Your Tri-Tool ruler gives you that angle.  Get the ruler or a similar ruler.   I saw someone go around their elbow  to get to nether regions and waste a lot of fabric to show how to do a Triangle in Square without a ruler.  That was no shortcut and create alot of waste. Get a ruler tool.  You will use it.  You will same time, effort, fabric expense. (Update:  I've elected to Deb Tuckers V Block Ruler.  Now her V block ruler does not use the rectangle method of cutting the sides, but I will adopt it to do just that!  It was $21 including shipping.  I will get a lot of use out of it.)





Block Construction Techniques: The Gospel and the Optional.

 I'm still a new quilter with 18 months under my belt.  My best advice to new quilters is to really focus on the basics.  These are going to sound so obvious; these are going to seem so simple; but if you've never done it before you are building skills and muscle memory.  Muscle memory ensures that you can both enjoy your favorite beverage (or 2) and binge watch your favorite shows and have good results.  


BASICS:  There are a few things that are not up for discussion in terms of needful things to do to construct a perfect block.  It was confusing to me at first because everyone had their own tips and tricks.  This is what I consider gospel.

  1. Understand how to straighten fabric from a bolt.  
  2. Master using your rulers, cutting mat and rotary cutter.  
  3. Choose a cutting method that makes sense for you. There is no one right way other than to (1) ensure fabric lengthwise and crosswise grains are SQUARE ON YOUR MAT AND AT ANY FOLD; (2) you measure correctly; (3) cut straight. 
  4. Sew straight--from beginning to end
  5. Understand how you will press your seams which depends on how you will be joining with adjoining blocks.  I think that it also makes a difference in whether you employ a scant 1/4" seam or a perfect 1/4" seam.
  6. Sew a perfect 1/4" seam from beginning to end (goes with 1 above)
  7. Sew a perfect 1/4" scant seam (one needle position to the right if you have a moveable needle).  This helps with a fold over for seams that will not be pressed open.
  8. Understand pressing techniques.  Set your seams on the wrong side every seam, every time.  Press the seam open on the front, every time. 
  9.  For blocks with lots of seams, when you press from the front, use a pressing cloth to guard against shine.
  10. Understand that fabric is a textile and will do wonky things.
  11. Understand that because fabric is a textile, you and your iron can bend it to your will.
  12. Understand bias--where it is good--any place but the OUTSIDE of a block.
  13. Sometimes you have to ease pieces together to make them fit--if you are too lax or too forceful you will have a less than optimum result.  Find the zen middle.
 They say there are no quilt police, but there ought to be to enforce the above!  If you master those 13 things, then there is nothing that you cannot accomplish.  I feel like I have finally mastered them, though honestly for a long time, I thought there was a conspiracy afoot in my sewing room among my machine and fabric.
 

 BEYOND BASICS:  As you master the items above, then you begin to see that there are many ways to skin the cat on basic block construction. You can see this through all of the specialty rulers and other methods.  Quilting in many ways is basic geometry.  If you want to have more freedom to design/build, then you have to understand some basic techniques that take into account cut sizes and finished sizes.  You need to begin with the end in mind.  Your brain needs to develop muscle memory to build the necessary foundation.  Additionally, during this stage, there are methods that build larger and then cut down.  There are some places where this is desirable, and some places (in my view) where it is just a waste.  Your job is to investigate and adopt a way that is pleasing to your skills and sensibilities.

Half-Square Triangles:  There are so many ways to do these things.  First you have to understand that there is math involved that you don't need to know.  Just a simple calculation. Second you need to know if you are trying to oversize you block and cut down. Third thing that  you need to know:  bias ideally should only be on diagonal.  There are methods that have you do 4 at a time that creates bias.  

If you want a 2" FINISHED block (sewn in your quilt with all seam allowances around the sides and through the diagonal join), you will create a HST that when put together is 2.5" square (and sewn into your quilt is 2").  To get that, you will need to add 7/8ths of an inch to your FINISHED block size.  Yes, it is that simple.  There are charts that are available for free.  You don't need them.  Put it on an index card put it in a handy reference place (design board, bulletin board, needful thing binder).  When you see methods that cut cut a square in 4 pieces, understand that you are creating bias where it is not intended.  I avoid those methods.  Methods that cut a larger square into 8 pieces, create straight of grain on EACH outer side which I believe is preferable.  My favorite way to make lots of HST's is using Lee Heinrich's pdf which I print on newsprint.  I create perfect HSTs every time.

I'll share more of my learnings in future posts.

 

Inkscape for Quilting: Storm(ish) at Sea!

 This is another post on my evangelicalesque bent on showcasing what one can do with Inkscape for quilt design.


The above is not meant to be a finished quilt, but rather an exposition of some of the "stuff" that you can do.  Notice my inelegant colorway experimentation.

Creating a Palette:  There are many online resources that allow you to create a pallette using color theory on a color wheel.  Here is one such resource from Sessions College for Professional Design.  You can create a palete by using the square builder and filling it with the colors that you have chosen.  (You simply copy the color number into Inkscape fill and stroke box and create a swatch.  (There are online tutorials that you can find.

Here is an example of the pallet that I dispersed in an indiscriminate way to simply experiment with the color selector (eye dropper) and filler (paint bucket).  As you can see, you can have lots of rabbit-holish fun experimenting with colorways.

Creating Assets:  If one is to design (and I'm just experimenting and sharing), you have to create block assets.  But each block asset has to have discrete parts so that you can change colorways--e.g. have something to fill.   Here is a Square in Square in Square Block.

Here is the composition of the square in square to create a collection of grouped objects:

Each side of the HST is a discrete part of the shape that can be selected and filled with any color.  So if you are creating block "assets" using such components with discrete boundaries will allow you to have more flexibility with color.

 

Here is the asset I created for the Triangle in Square: 

There are three separate components (center triangle, and two side triangles) that can be filled with three color combinations if you liked!  Further, you could split the middle triangle to have yet more color ways.  Put to of them together, group them...you have your diamond!

Because Inkscape has several powerful functions that will allow you to manipulate your block assets.  Understand that once you build the assets, you only have to do it once!  Keep your assets saved in a file.  When you want to use them, you can copy and paste them into a new design.  It really is that easy.

Grouping/Ungrouping.  As you create assets that have discrete building blocks, you will want to group them together to have a contiguous block.  CTRL + G groups.   CTRL + Shift + G ungroups.  You will want to use those shortcuts because you will use them "muchly".  A grouped block can be rotated and flipped.  It cannot be colored differently until you ungroup.  Toggling between the grouped and ungrouped states is important.

Creating a Duplicate:  I would suggest grouping before creating a duplicate.  CTRL+D creates a duplicate that rests right on top of the object you have selected.  Simply use the arrow selector tool to grab it and move it where you like.  

Flipping Horizontally and Vertically:  Twisting and turning blocks is easy using the horizontal and vertical flips.  Again, make sure that your block is grouped or you will get some unwanted results.

Segments:  You can create discrete segments (rows, sashing, columns).  Here is an example of a column:

Here is another example: 


You can quickly see how creating just two columns, using the duplicate (CTRL+D) function, you can quickly create a quilt pattern..and in fact, it was simply these two elements that I used to create the very first graphic.  And once you create a row or a column, you can simply flip the objects around:  the column becomes a row, a row can become a column.  You can group two row/columns together and duplicate to finish out your design.

Resizing Assets:  Once you've put the 'hard' work in to create an asset, you can simply resize for any block that you wish. So for example in this quilt a square in square in square that is 1 unit as its smallest measure (e.g. the corners of the nine patch), it is 2 units (2x) bigger in the center.  You don't have to redraw.  If you drew the bigger block first, then simply reduce it by 50%. You will want to lock the object aspect ratio and reduce.  If you drew the smaller block first, you would simply do the obverse.

Is it really that easy?  Yes it is...but only after you do the heavy lifting to understand the interface and explore the programs options.

Save your work as you go.  I had the 1.0 version crash while I was using it.  I lost all of my initial storm at sea assets, though I was sure that I had saved it.  I upgraded to the newer 1.0.1 version.  My second recreation solidified my learnings, it was not a wasted effort.




Inkscape Redux

 In working with my "baby quilt" Inkscape drawing more, I realized that I had an element that was not quite right.

Here's the original image.  I realized that the diamond centers in mid sashing was not quite right.


I changed (easily) a couple of elements note below and created  a more harmonious design.

And, my final design (after much futzing/stumbling about). 


 

 I did a complete takeoff, though I realized that my wandering eye to a finished v. a cut size caused me to become friendly with my Havil seam ripper. Check twice!  Measure twice!  Sew Once!  Avoid Unsewing!!!!!

When I complete the quilt, I will take a picture of it.  I will also post the blocks, measurements and take offs if any want to give this a try. This project provided me with twofold benefits:  (1) I was able to learn essential elements of Inkscape to allow me to understand in a structured way how to use the program; and (2) helped me understand the organic creation of quilt blocks AND their interplay.

 

 





Using Inkscape for Quilt Design

 Among my many nebbish pursuits, I stumbled upon Inkscape.  It is a free vector drawing program which to can discover for yourself here.  My intent is not to teach anything about it here, but rather introduce you to its functionality for quilting.  

I'm not a quilt designer, nor will I ever be.  However, I did want a functional way to be able to lay out blocks on paper without the hassle of actually drawing and erasing them.  I found little on the internet about using Inkscape for quilting.  

For any type of drawing program, you have to invest a bit of time to learn it.  There are plenty of great tutorials.  Admittedly, my first whack at it was frustrating (and I'm somewhat computer savvy).  My second whack was more fruitful.  I just simply had to sit down and do the work.  

It is always helpful to have a practical project on which to learn.  I decided that I would design a baby quilt. Here it is.  I have not made it yet, but plan to.


In order to do the design, I had to do several things.  Again, I'm not teaching here, merely telling you my process that might prove a nice intro if you were to delve in.  When you draw, you are basing it on finished sizes of your blocks.  An unfinished 9.5" block will finish at 9".  Here I am using a 9 patch as my central block.  Each of my blocks are 3".  Don't be confused by the fact that each block is just 4 grid squares each.  Using a quadrant (4 grids) is helpful for drawing elements:  1 unit = 3".  Each unit is .5 of total.  When you determine your cutting, you will have to add seam allowances for each unit.

  • Create individual Elements.  I created three elements each finishing at 3".
    • HST
    • Square
    • TriRecs
  • Determine Sashing:  I have sashing blocks that will be 3" x 6".
  • Arrange your elements.
    • Interior block (a simple 9 patch) containing 4 HST, 1 Square and 4 TriRecs.  Your block size can be whatever you choose.  I chose 3".
    • Sashing:  I have outer sashing which is simply 3" Trirec blocks 
  • Count!  For each element count the number of blocks that you have to make. 

This quilt was fashioned using a light, medium and dark fabric.  You could choose anything that was pleasing to you.  

What techniques did I need to master fumble through using Inkscape?  Here's a summary:

  • Understand how to fashion your workspace.  I'm working on a grid that is based on inches.  You chose your own scale.  
  • Create your elements and understand how a single block like an HST has two elements.  You need the two triangles so that you can create separate fill patterns.  I created each of my elements in one worksheet, and I then copied them into another.  They are easy to resize.
  • Learn how to group objects.  Grouping two triangles to an HST creates a single unit.  Once you arrange several objects (HST's,QST's, Squares, TriRecs, etc) to create a block, you would simply group ALL of these objects together to make a block.  You can then copy and paste them on your canvas.
  • Learn how to ungroup objects.  You'll need to ungroup if you wish to change color schemes or rearrange blocks. I found that if I had ungrouped blocks, I could simply copy then and create a grouped block.  That saves time.  I'll be a littl more organized about this in my next pass.
  • Learn how to flip/rotate objects (hint:  keyboard shortcuts are really helpful).  That way, you can copy one object and then paste and flip it wherever you please.
  • Learn how to fill elements with colors (to create your color schemes).
  • Master your grid.  The grid has many controls that allow you to fix the size of your block. I found it easier to use a 1" grid as the base of my unit.  However, each unit corresponds to a 3" block--my individual unit size.  Your 1" grid unit could correspond to a 4", 5", 6" etc inch unit.  Using this method of 1=? helps for larger designs.  Figure out your way and stick to it! These grid controls refine your initial drawing of shapes.

Once you get comfortable (and remember there is lots of discomfort that comes first when we are learning new techniques), your muscle memory will take over. 

 

 

My Smallest Thanksgiving Ever!

 I took over Thanksgiving prep from my mother and mother in law in 1987.  I had been married for 5 years, and with two Thanksgivings attended for about 7 (pre marriage), two TG meals was just too much.  So verily, my home has been the TG headquarters for the last 33 years.  I did miss one year.  My father died in 2016, and I was emotionally and physically exhausted from helping my step mom care for him during his June - November transition.  It was precious time.  One's mind and body slogs through what it needs to.  But when it doesn't need to, they send up the white flag.  So TG 2016 was white flagged.  My family went to other family, and I sequestered.

Now, we have a small family.  So the largest TG I have ever had was 14 people.  I don't know how many manage double that amount.  I like to prepare the dinner for everyone, so you come as you are, not with a dish in your hand.  (Yes, I know that is silly--even selfish, snobbish-- on my part.  I have allowed my daughter to bring her sweet potato casserole).  

Advance to 2020. I take COVID seriously.  I let my FIL, BIL/SIL and daughter know that I'm not inviting people in.  We will gorge in place!  So it was just Mark and I and our son who lives with us.  A Gang of Three.

Without the burden of EPA cleanup, I could simply focus on cooking.  It was a simple meal.  I did get a turkey this year--15lb. I would have gotten a smaller one had I found one.  They were on sale for .29/lb.  The last couple of years I have stuffed a pork loin roast...it goes well with all of the TG favs!

A flash of inspiration, I elected to spatchcock the turkey and cook it on the grill.  Spatcocking involves cutting the backbone out of the turkey (so if you are a stuffer, you would never embrace this method), and flattening it out.  I dispensed with the flattening, and merely draped it over a an inverted meat rack.  I like grilling chickens this way--they turn out perfectly cooked:  crisp on outside (I had slathered it with butter, paprika and cayenne) and juicy on the inside.  You do need a good pair of poultry shears.  I used my trusty Global Boning knife (do not use your finer bladed chef's knife for such work).  I then through it in with the neck and giblets to make giblet gravy.

Long ago, I adopted Alton Brown's method of cooking turkey, to include brining. But I was too lazy to brine.  His method involves high heat.  I have a ceramic grill--so heat is very hot in that.  I had a large rectangular baking stone that I put over the grates which helps dissipate some of the heat.  So I was unconcerned about high heat, and I've employed this method before.

The turkey cooked beautifully.  The meat rack elevated the breast--so it was able to enjoy a more moderate temperature.  I should have turned the bird as the part next to the back of the grill cooked a wee bit hotter.

I pulled the bird out and let it rest.  When I sliced it, the breast was very juicy, as was the rest of the bird.  I will use this method in the future, with only the mid way turn as a technique adjustment. Why not consider this as something to try.  You need to know your grill--and of course have a good temperature probe.  (A great Christmas gift for yourself or the cook in your life).

I made other staples:  sausage/cornbread dressing (yes I make the cornbread); cranberry sauce (same recipe for 33 years).  I did not make my Maple Pecan Chocolate Tart (I consider that my  signature dessert).  I made a sweet potatoe pie using leitesculinaria.com 

Pâte Sablée (Rich Pie Crust) Recipe

(formatting above is weird, but I'm too lazy to change)

So our meal was small but wonderful.  Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday--and I'm grateful for many things.





The Lemoyne Star---Again

 I've been away from star making since my last post.  Yesterday I decided I would try to make the star again using my sew and flip method.  I looked at it against a regular Lemoyne Star.  The regular star is prettier.  The sew and flip gives an additional seam in each corner and at each set in triangle.

The point of these alternative ways is to avoid dealing with Y seams.Y seams are not hard, it is really the mastering of the fabric handling that is key.  I put together a regular LeMoyne star.  It was sad.  Had I forgotten everything that I had learned?  Apparently the answer was a resounding yes.

I went back to the two mountains that have helped me with the LeMoyne Star.  One is Edyta Sitar's video and the other from TQS.  Both of which have different techniques.



I spent the day today, perfecting my technique.  I'm happy to say that all of my Y seams are perfect.  I blended some of the methods from both videos.  I found that for setting in squares, pressing the square into a diagonal was very helpful. That way there is a perfect needle stop that is exactly at the pivot crease is on diagonal and the 1/4" seam allowance combines for the perfect pivot.

I do not care for the oversewing and unpicking in Dee's method.  I don't use it. 

Practice really does make perfect. And there is NO other construction method that yields as lovely a star.

1954 Singer 66

I purchased a 1954 Singer 66 in mint condition from a local Craigslist seller.  I thought that the machine might be more "solid" than Brown Betty, not a cookie, but my pet name but for my Kenmore 117.812 (made by White, 1948).  I paid $100.  It was in excellent, original condition.  It needed nominal cleaning but MUCH oiling.  It needs a replacement belt and a new tire for the bobbin winder. Also, the clutch is not disengaging correctly for the bobbin winder as the winder winds but the needle goes. . I think that is an easy fix.

With two vintage machines, one a rotary, one an oscillating, I had a chance for a sew off.  Make no mistake.  The Singer 66 is "Black Beauty"...she is sleek and graceful.  Brown Betty...well she looks like she is built for radar subterfuge like a stealth bomber: angular and jaunty. I've heard so much about the Singer 66 being a workhorse and that it had more foot clearance than the Kenmore it seemed a reasonable purchase.  I do have my grandmother's Singer 66, but it is a treadle, and I have not conscripted that into service.  However, I did learn that you can motorize one if it has a hole in the cast body to accept a motor.  It does.  We'll put ideas about that machine in the parking lot for now.

Before the sew off, though, I had to give the 66 a fighting chance.  Armed with Kroil that I had put into a small bottle with a very small metal tip, I liberally squirted Kroil in all the oil parts and underneath the machine.  I removed the side plate and spied some trapped, red,  'material'.  Oh, I must get this out.  I tugged, poked prodded and even resorted to getting a lighter to burn it out.  I also spied a screw that if I could undo it I could more easily get to the trapped red stuff.  That screw was so tight I had to abandon.

It then occurred to me that all of my efforts were thwarted for a reason.  Alas, I learned that the red bit of felt is simply wicking material that you drop oil on to keep the race lubricated. Whoopsie!  Second, I learned that the unyielding screw was "the screw that must not be turned".  It houses the integral, needful things for it to STITCH.  Luckily the screw that must not be turned could not be turned:  Disaster averted. (I will also note, that I have my grandmother's vintage 66 red eye.  I note that the red felt in the bobbin is completely gone).

To repair my felt excavation damage, I found some candle wicking material and shoved it into the spring that held the last few shreds of the red felt. It seemed secure, and I oiled it.  I ran the machine very fast so that the Kroil could do it's thing.  I then put sewing machine oil on everything.  The machine was running well.  

In my unofficial sew off, I was evaluating speed and feed in addition to stitch quality.  Brown Betty, hands down, feeds stronger and straighter than the Singer 66.  I'm no scientist, but I'm going to attribute it to the configuration of the feed dogs.  It has a middle grabber in front of the needle v. behind the needle as my other machines do.

I also did some obnoxiously thick fabric (basically a strap that (that is 4 layers of fabric once folded) and then folded 4 times.  It barely fit under the feet of either machine.  Brown Betty chewed right through it.  Black Beauty...balked at first, but chugged through.  I believe the stitch formation was prettier on Brown Betty.

I ran a quilt sandwich through Brown Betty.  She said, "Yessir, I will have some more please!"  Effortless stitching.  However, there is no way to lower the feed dogs.  I improvised 'something' that would equate to a darning foot.  However, I could not get a stitch to form.  I have other machines, so no need to spend time worrying with that.

I'm unclear of the origin of my new fascination with these vintage machines.  However, one thing is for sure...."They don't make them like they used to!"  Nevertheless, modern machines do have more amenities.

I have two more machines coming...such a bug has bit me. 

Machine 1:  An mid-50's Singer 215G I found on  Ebay.  It is a German made Singer with some residual features from the Haid und Neu Company which was purchased by Singer..  It is straight stitch only, but the feed dogs do drop.

Machine 2:  A mid-50's Singer 404 Slantomatic.  It was only made for a couple of years.  Apparently quilters did not like the stitch so much, and it was not as portable as the 301's.  I purchased this from Goodwill.  I consider it a donation, so I don't feel so badly.

 

 

 






Toastmaster

 No, I'm not going to speech-making school.  Rather, I purchased a little bit of my history--I bought a Toastmaster griddle.

I foolishly stored my Krups Belgian Waffle Maker on top of my fridge...tall side up, rather that flat side down. So a jog from the fridge door shutting sent it down to it ignominious death on the kitchen tiled floor.  I could have been beaned just as easily.

Booh!  Hooh!

A go-to dinner staple is Italian sausages with Belgian Waffles.  (I do no understand chicken and waffles...never had it; never will).  Now, my waffles are not the whipped egg whites...too much trouble.  Though I'm a perennial kitchen nerd.  Accordingly, I've cycle through and tested many many waffle recipes.  The fav goes up on the magnet on one of the fridge (killer!) sides.

Backstory:  I was helping my FIL connect his phone and computer to his new Dish network.  It was an easy thing to do.  One thing he likes to do is go to Barhamsville where there is a local thrift shop that operates Saturdays only.  It was a short drive from where he lives.  

He is the last parent alive between Mark and I as well as my BIL/SIL.  It was a treat to shuffle about the little thrift area.  I found some nice sheets which I will use for making bag liners.  (Though I imagine the stuff that I might have that will go to a thrift store at my demise).  My goal is to employ a two-pronged approach:  I will execute Swedish Death Cleaning over the next few years (I am 60 (gasping to myself) and in good health) along with creating like mad to transform "stuff" to usable things.

There's a little alchemist in all of us...alchemy is the root of creativity...or maybe the process of...

I digress.

On the way back, we stopped at a "Barn Sale".  It is was an on again off again place over these last 3+ decades.  There was a Toastmaster griddle (waffle/pancake) contraption. The original panini machine. Two surfaces:  waffle, smooth.  It was $10.  I passed.

I dropped my FIL home, and then on the way home  stopped at the thrift shop in Providence Forge.  I love shopping there as I always find something "needful"...a/k/a "deferred contributions".

There it was again:  A vintage Toastmaster waffle iron/pancake griddle.  Mint condition at the gasp inspiring price of $2.  Sold.  

Today I transported myself back into the way-back machine.  I made a grilled cheese sandwich:  perfectly flattened, toasted and gooey.  And the other thing that I remembered?  The glorious fried cheese that oozed from the sandwhich onto the griddle.

Who knew that $2 could buy bliss?

 

(I should also note that I saw same on ebay for considerably more money).




 


117.812 Kenmore Deluxe Rotary Part II

I wrote about my acquisition of this machine here.   I've been doing a little sewing on it, and I wanted to provide some "fresh" observations. The person who sold this to me stated she got it from a 92 year old woman who was the first owner.  She would have been 20 when the machine was purchased as it is a 1948 machine.  I asked her if she were a collector...she said that she was a rescuer.  The woman was suffering from dementia.

  • Stitch Length: Maximum stitch length is a smidge less than my Bernina maximum stitch length.
  • Pressure control knob:  I did not know that most vintage machines have pressure control knobs for the feet.  It's a wondrous thing.  My Bernina 910 did not have it, but my new B530 does.  There's a plus in the box for considering vintage.
  • Continuous backward:  This machine has a lever that allows for continuous backward until you change the direction of the lever. (Up for forward; down for reverse).  My Bernina 910 does not offer this, though my new B530 does.
  • Amazing power:  The woman who sold this to me had several things that she had sewn together to include (all together)  2 layers of denim + 3 layers of handbag vinyl  All perfectly stitched.  I tried my own hand at this.  I took 4 layers of quilt batting + fabric.  The stitches were perfect and beautiful, but I did break the needle on a backstitch test.  It was the needle that came with the machine so I'm unsure of the quality of it.
  • Feed Dogs:  The machine has 3 rows of feed dogs.  The middle feed dog is in front of the needle.  My two Bernina's have the middle feed dog behind the needle.  I note that the machine feeds material through quite nicely.
  • Size.  I consider this a diminutive machine.  The machine itself  is 9.5" high and 13.5" wide.  This takes into consideration the highest (to include knob heights) and the widest (clutch knob) measurements.  This is compared to my Bernina which measures 12" x 16"==so about 80% smaller than those machines if you split the diff.  The base is wooden and is 2 7/8" high and 17.5 x 8.5 long and wide respectively.
  • Weight:  It weighs exactly 18lbs (base + machine).  I did not weigh the case.
  • Body material:  I've seen it said that the body and machine bed is an aluminum alloy.  A magnet will not stick to the base, but it will stick to the chromed presser foot area plate.
  • Seam guides...none.  Interesting the pre-drilled holes did not fit any of my screws.  I have ordered some "old stuff" (vintage feet and seam guides).  We will see if that works.
  • Bobbin:  It takes an old style bobbin.  Bobbin goes in clockwise.  Remove the base screw to tilt the machine back for easier access to the bobbin.
  • Threading.  It has an unusual threading pattern to the modern eye.  I saw an excellent aphorism to remember at "Sewingiscool" blog:  "Tension before takeup"  This machine threading can be EASILY reversed (and I made that mistake).  So no matter the machine that you are threading, remember that little jingle!
  • Foot pedal...the foot pedal is a bit awkward and very stiff. 
  • Muscle memory:  Because this machine requires you to spin the handwheel AWAY from you, your prior muscle memory is in conflict.  Also for those used to flipping a lever UP for backward stitching (like I have to do on my 910), muscle memory is not friendly here either.
  • Feet:  It takes a "forked" foot.  The machine only came with the perfect 1/4" foot.  I have ordered additional feet from Ebay. It also includes a manual for a 117.551

While my Berninas (910 and the newer B530) offer newer conveniences, the seriousness of this machine takes my breath away!  And I would not give up my BSR on my B530...but not every machines does everything well.

Kenmore 117.812: Part I

 Update + Preamble:  If you need a high quality manual for this/similar machine I copied a manual for a 117.551 that I received from the purchase of some Greist Rotary attachments made for this machine.  You can download here --similar in every aspect but the needle stitch selector (mine has a screw that locks the width).  I copied the manual in 600dpi.

I frequently peruse Craigslist sewing machine offerings.  There are all manner of things offered, and I don't see too many things of interest.  However, yesterday I found this Kenmore 117.812,




According to an information source on the web (here's a link to searsarchives.com which will download the pdf of all Kenmore machines), it is a 1948 Kenmore Rotary Deluxe machine.  It does one thing:  straight stitch.  The machine came in a wooden box with a thick leather handle, as were made for suitcases.  The handwheel turns away from you.  It has a stitch length adjustment and goes backwards.  It is a rotary hook, not an oscillating hook like most machines.  It is driven by a motor that has a rubber wheel that sits flush against the turn wheel.  It also has a bobbin pully wheel that winds the bobbin.  To use, simply disengage the clutch by turning toward you and holding the handwheel firmly.  

Though the machine had been serviced in the spring, and I could see the gears underneath the machine had been greased freshly, there was some friction that developed rather quickly after my sewing for less than 10 minutes.  

I went to the garage (with supplication for Mr. Snake Man to not surprise me.....Mark spied a snake in the garage...which has NEVER happened before. My hope is that he exited as we left the door open to allow him a graceful exodus) and got some PB Blaster.  I tilted the machine to expose the undercarriage and sprayed every place that moved.  Within 10 minutes everything was working quietly and smoothly.  I reapplied oil to everything.

The machine is not large.  It takes different feet...top clamp.  Basically a two pronged fork that fits over the shank and a round screw that secures it.  The foot that came with it is a perfect 1/4" foot.  Using this for quilting will be a pleasure.

I certainly did not need another machine, but I wanted to get one that would do heavier duty work while only straight stitching.


Upcycling

 Oh yes, "upcycling" is the new, big thing.  You Tube has many great vids/contributors on the glories of upcycling.  I've been a "thrifter" for decades.  Of course, thrift stores were not as ubiquitous "then" as they are "now".  Thrifting satisfies our hunter, gather impulses--without breaking the bank. Plus the monies that go to charitable stores support great causes (in addition to feeding our impulses).  

I recently had a chance to go to one of my favorite thrift shops--CHKD:  Children's Hospital of the King's Daughters. It is an old organization, founded in 1901 by women who cared for indigent children known as "King's Daughters".  Their thrift stores contribute $2mil annually to their causes.  

I have found some really cool stuff there.  With Covid, I've been not done much foraging, but did so yesterday.  For the small some of $20, (I got a senior citizen discount of 25% off), I got

  • 3 100% cotton king-sized Sheets.  I 'm going to line shopping bags with these.  
  • 3 sets of 100% cotton duck, tabbed curtains.  Great fabric to make aprons, shopping bags.
  • about 3 yards of a vintage Waverly "Yew Too" print...green topiary on blue and white stripes.  Again...shopping bags or other bag like stuff.
  • A large damask table cloth...you got it...bag interiors.

I've already made 2 aprons from the duck.  I took one of my favorite aprons, folded it in half and traced it out with the seam allowances on some Pelon pattern fabric. I love that stuff...so much easier to work with than paper.  I just placed it on the fold of the fabric and it was so easy...particularly since I used the pre-hemmed piece of the curtains.

Though I have several aprons, but due to their use over these many years, they are a tad 'ratty'.  I always cook with an apron, and I like to where one when I clean.  So now I have a "newer" one. It was nice to have a maiden voyage.

The second apron I made for my sister in law. I made her a utility apron...something that she can wear when she gardens. 

It was fun to imagine and execute on possibilities AND  support one of my favorite causes.


CrossBody Bag

 

I found this wonderful video for a cross-body bag on You Tube by Kay Whitt.  With my burgeoning stash of fat quarters AND some home fashion fabric that I likely will not do anything with, I thought making some cross-body bags would be a simple and useful thing to make.


I made the one to the right which turned out nicely.  However, after I made it, I elected to make another some other modifications that are different that Kay's. First, I added a 3/4 pocket to the back.  Second, I added a pocket to the interior. I will not add a pocket in future makes, because the interior is so flat, there is no need for such. However, I would NEVER make another bag without the 3/4 pocket on the back.

It's a pretty straightforward bag to make--and perfect for stashing essentials while not weighing you down.  I put a small aluminum spring clip on the outside so that I can clip my mask to the bag.  

I'll warn that the opening is 6" and is not all that big.  So if you are a  big-wallet person, it is not going to be all that easy to get in and out of the bag.  You'll then get frustrated in using the bag. My wallet is not big, but it felt stuffed in the opening, and was not all that easy to get out when I was at the checkout counter!  (I'll note that it fits nicely in my 3/4 pocket on the back. Even though I had a smaller wallet, I found it awkward. Of course you could make the bag bigger. A better alternative is to have a stash and go wallet where you can have your essentials and not add weight to your grab and go bag experience.





The Little Zippered Bag

 I used to write systematically.  I would get up in the a.m....early .... and begin writing.  As Jose Ortega Y Gasset said, "Writing is the policeman of the mind."  The act of writing is organizing the chaos of the brain.  I think that applies to "makers" as well.  I've always done some sort of making, and I attest that it forces the brain to take concept to concrete.

I write the above mostly as a reminder that I should write daily.

 

I have a growing stash of fat quarters.  I purchase them from Amazon.  For about $22 you get 20 fat quarters which are part of the Free Spirit Mystery bundle that comes in and out of stock. (Other places sell this for double).  You get all sorts of things from Free Spirit designers.  I can honestly say, that I've seen some the lovely and loathsome fabric in these bundles.  Never fear.

Some of the fabric is so odd that you have to wonder what to do with it.  I had some 30 year old zippers (and the price was still attached).  Zippers cost the same now as they did then.  I decided that I would try my hand at making a little zippered bag...fully lined.  

I also wanted to experiment with sewing with Perle Cotton. I wound some turquoise Perle Cotton on the bobbin and put some widely spaced (too wide really!) quilting on the bag.  Fat quarters are the perfect size for making bags of any sort.  I took one of the odd quarters and thought it would make a cute bag.  I'm so glad that I undertook this skill-building exercise.  Gladder still that there is the fraternity of You Tubers who generously share how to make such a bag.

So after watching a few vids, I embarked on making the little bag above.  That odd fabric made a cute bag.  I gifted it to a friend of mind who was hosting an outdoor happy hour.  she loved it.

And then I made the second bag out of gorgeous bright fabric.  That, too, was gifted.  I also made a third and fourth.  I'll make many more, but the idea is that for the price of a zipper and a fat quarter, and less than an hour of your time, you can make a simple little bag to use as a hostess gift, or to fill with goodies (in a Ziploc), lotions, kitchen gadgets.  

The hardest part about making these bags is to remember to open the !@#$^@%$& zipper before sewing the outer fabric together. (If you forget, just grab the zipper tab through the outside part of the bag...the thicker your bag, the harder that is).  The bag gets turned through the zipper and through the inside lining. So if you are on auto pilot, you could easily forget and leave the zipper closed or sew all the way around your inside lining.  For the latter problem, your seam ripper is your friend.

Supplies are simple:  Outer fabric, inner fabric, zip, batting (fusible or non, if not fusible, quilt it) thread scissors.  Boxing the corners is an easy skill and will open up the bag.

 My sister has been undergoing some stress (as have many).  I made a larger format bag for her in a beautiful metallic gold peacock designed fabric.  I quilted it with some lovely embroidery thread (poly).  I gave it to her as a "worry bag".  Put you worries in it and forget about it.

Why not consider making your own?

 











My New Go-To Baby Quilt-- Four Patch and Feature Fabric Baby Quilt


                                                                 

I entered  the world of quilting to make baby quilts for the multitude of babies that were coming into our lives from my daughter's, son's and our own friends.  By making these quilts, I was developing and advancing my quilting skills.

There is no shortage of cute fabric for baby quilts, and I've made several different types of quilts. Several of them much more elaborate than needed...but I was trying to figure things out...and learning by doing cannot be underestimated.

Most recently I was at an impasse on what do do with some cute elephant fabric.  I had one idea...did some cutting and laying out and ended up with a big fat NOPE!  

After that false start, I settled on this simple pattern.  It is alternating blocks of a 4 patch in two colors and a single, featured fabric.  In this rendition, the 4 patch is tan and white and the featured fabric is a cute elephant print. 

If you choose your featured fabric first, you simply have to decide on 2 coordinating fabrics to make your 4 patch.  So no tough decisions to make. I've made several other renditions with gray and white 4 patch and a green/blue gingham check and white 4 patch.  Both equally lovely.  I used a darker green..but though it coordinated, I felt it overpowered. Because the 4 patches are assembled using width of fabric strips paired together for each color, they are easy to sew, press and subcut.  A great project for your sewing happy hour...you can drink your favorite beverage, watch your favorite show and make something cute!

Do watch the orientation of the 4 patch...I reversed a couple in another quilt...but I just left it.  If you are accurate with your cutting and sewing, everything should line up nicely.  This is not a fiddly pattern.

This quilt measures 36"x36" square.  Quilt Recipe is below. 



 



Print Recipe

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Quick Baby Quilts with 4 Patch and Featured Fabric.

Simple baby quilt with 6 rows and 6 columns of 6" finished blocks alternating between a 4 patch of coordinating fabrics with your chosen featured fabric.

Source: Leisa

Yield: 36 x 36" Quilt

Serves:

Ingredients

  • 3 6.5" WOF Featured Fabric Subcut to 6.5" (you will need 18 and may need to cut additional blocks)
  • 3 3.5" WOF Background A paired with B Strip
  • 3 3.5" WOF Background B Paired with A Strip
  • Extra 6.5 cut additional to achieve 18 blocks
  • Extra A+B cut additional as needed to achieve 18 4- patches

Directions

  • To make 4 Patch:
  • Choose fabrics that have sufficient contrast with each other and are harmonious with your featured fabric.
  • For each pair of A/B strips: Sew length-wise with scant 1/4"' seam. Press seam to darker fabric. You will have 3 sets.
  • Subcut each paired set to 3.5" rectangles (for 6" finished block).
  • **Note the direction you want your 4 patch--darker block far left or lighter block far left. Make sure that you maintain this layout when sewing to Featured fabric.
  • Line up one block with light/dark square on top and the second block with dark/light square on bottom. Sew 1/4" seam. Press blocks. (Direction does not matter as it will be sewn to non-seamed block.) You will end up with 18 blocks measuring 6.5" square (for 6" finished).
  • Featured Fabric
  • Cut 6.5" strips, WOF. Subcut to 6.5".
  • Layout Quilt:
  • Layout 6 rows of alternating blocks. Mind the orientation of your 4 patch blocks--they are easy to turnaround!
  • 4P=4 patch FF=Featured Fabric
  • R1 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF
  • R2 FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P
  • R3 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF
  • R4 FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P
  • R5 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF
  • R6 FF, 4P, FF, 4P, FF, 4P
  • Sew complete rows. Then sew each row together matching seams. (Pin as needed). I like to glue baste
  • Make quilt sandwich using your favorite method. For quick quilting, simply stitch in the ditch (and carry through the middle of your 6" finished blocks.You can use a decorative thread and an "S" stitch over your ditches.

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