1948 Kenmore a/k/a "Brown Betty" + My Quilting Journey Learnings/Preferences

 I've written about Brown Betty before.  She is my 1948 Kenmore (brown crinkle finish hence her name; made by White) that is a straight stitch rotary.  She does one thing and does it well:  stitches a perfect 1/4" seam and pulls fabric straight through.  As I've become enthralled with the simple elegance of the Hunter's Star Pattern, I have really appreciated the efficacy of Brown Betty's service.

I want to give you 5 reasons for considering getting a vintage machine:

1. They are simple mechanically and will last forever.
2. Parts are easy to find to include feet and motors.
3. Straight stitch machines have the advantage of a single hole (v. purchasing a patchwork/straight stitch plate for your new machine.)
4. They can serve as a backup for your more modern machine that has more bells and whistles
5. The seam guides that come with these machines allow for a perfect gate--no more futzing about with sewing ledges etc.
   

My Brown Betty has 3 feed dog traction points in front of the needle v. 2.  That means that my fabric does not get pulled out of kilter.  While not seen in the pic below, there is a feed dog on the left, the right and a small dog just in front of the needle.  See that seam guide?  That thing works perfectly.  It stays put and guides fabric perfectly.  The work underneath the needle is part of a Hunter's Star block.  That block, like many, needs perfection.

My quilt skills have evolved over the last 24 months so that my cutting, piecing and pressing skills are muscle memory.  I'd like to share a few of my learnings and preferences:

• Perfect Piecing (mostly)
• Perfect 1/4" seams:  I use Brown Betty (mostly) OR my Bernina gated foot. The cheap gated feet don't roll over seams and they bend--at least my purchase did.  The Bernina foot has no shortcomings. But my preference is to piece on Brown Betty  because she pulls fabric more straight due to the 3 feed dogs in front of the needle, perfect 1/4" foot, single hole needle plate and stable seam guide.   
• Glue Basting:  I do not use pins.  Rather, I glue baste using Elmer's School Glue in a precision tipped bottle. Does it take more time?  Unsure on this.  What I am sure of is these things (which is why I don't pin):
•  more easily stage your work by glue basting
• easily stack up with seam side toward you glue basted piecing.  Once you start sewing chain piecing is a cinch because the fabric will not shift.
• no pins to attach to other pieces or get in the way of your seam guide.
• fewer mistakes
• no fabric distortion--yes, pins distort.
  
• glue stabilizes biased edges
• perfectly align your seams and edges securely glued and stack pieces for batch sewing.  You can sew faster with NO shifting of edges.  Just sew straight and true.  This saves time and allows you to better control your work.
• no pins to prick you, eliminating bleeding on your work
• Perfect Cutting:  There are many methods out there. Find one that makes sense for you.  I am right handed, but I work on the right side (v the left) using a two ruler method for cutting mainly because I don't care to keep turning my fabric after making a cut. Further, the "power cutting" method espoused by some, requires too much math.  I find the Quilter's Slidelock to be a perfect companion for this method and highly recommend it.
  
• Prepare fabric for cutting.  
• True up the bolt fold.  It is true that it is easier to cut a shorter amount of fabric.  True up the fold on the fabric by shifting the selvedge right or left until the fabric falls straight.  You will likely get a  very uneven line on the edge of your fabric.
• Starch and iron your fabric.  I think that it matters.
  
• Fold the fabric again just over the selvedges.  If your bottom fold and your top fold edges are parallel, then all will be well.  By taking a small amount of time to do this your results will be well-rewarded. Of course you can just cut with a single fold toward you and selvedges away.
  
• Cut your left/right (lefty/righty) edge true. With prepped fabric with parallel folds in front of you, cut a clean edge.  You should now have a perfectly square edge from which you are working.  For my two ruler method, I measure my cut with the ruler on the right and use my left hand to hold the left ruler down.  It is an easy way to keep your cut always square.
• Here is where finding your comfort
  
• Use a ruler weight for the left ruler for long cuts.  Best ruler weight?  I use small, antique iron.  I put felt on the bottom so my rulers are not scratch.  Easy to grab, and dense center of gravity.  Hand weights work well too.
• Dry erase markers:  These work well to mark your ruler lines so that you don't forget what size you are cutting.  Quilting can be hard work, and when you are tired you can forget. Markings simply wipe off and don't get on your fabric.
• Good rulers:  I have many rulers.  I have my Olfa Olipfa ruler that is more than 30 years old. With my Slidelock to serve as my cutting edge using the two-ruler method, I don't use it as much. Worth noting that markings matter...so ensure that the ruler that you are getting has the markings that you need.  These are the rulers that I have that I would not be without:
  
• Slotted Rulers:  I have only one:  I love Gudrun's Stripology ruler (XL).  It makes short work of cutting strips and sub-cuts more quickly and accurately than any other method. Yest, it is expensive, but will save time and frustration.  Fabric is expensive, so wrong or crooked cuts cost time/money.
• Creative Grids Diamond Dimensions ruler:  This ruler excels in it's marking for 45 degree cuts.  If you like to make bias cuts or work with stars, you will enjoy employing this ruler. 
• Triangle ruler:  I have the OmniGrid 6".  Get one that has regular markings (in addition to those specialty rulers with  markings that work with finished sizes) for your regular work.  
• Square up rulers:  I have just a few square up rulers, though they come in many sizes.  Easy to overdo here.
  
• Corner Clipper:  A corner clipper ruler is a nice to have, and I use BOTH these frequently.  They save you time because you are cutting BEFORE you are sewing.  That means the 1/4" seam allowance is already accounted for in the cut.  No marking then sewing then clipping.  You will need a scant and perfectly straight 1/4" seam.
  
• Corner Clipper...it is small and great for binding strips.
• Folded Corner Clipper (Antler Designs)... larger with great markings.
  
• Specialty Rulers:  Depending on what you like to do, specialty rulers can make short work of complicated blocks.  Some rulers are for a single thing only...and you can quickly build up an inventory and investment in little-used rulers.
  
• Rotary Cutter:  find and use one that is comfortable for you.  I have my original Olfa in 45 mm and 60mm and have 2 Martelli's as well.  I find the Martelli 45mm to be my favorite ergonomic cutter--particularly with my current finger injury.
• Cutting mat:  
• Large Mat:I have my original Olfa 24 x 36 mat on my cutting table.  
• Small Mat: I bought a smaller, inexpensive mat for placement by my sewing machine. (It sits to the left of my sewing area along with my ironing station.
• Rotating mat:  These are not necessary, but will save time and frustration. Note that a square mat needs more rotating room than an circular mat.
  
• Perfect Pressing:  Oh geez was my first quilt a mess--poor cutting, piecing, pressing and sewing.  When it turned out so badly, I had to deep dive.  I realized that my pressing surface was a mess and my technique was flawed. That small fold that you didn't press out will come back and bite you in places that hurt.
  
• Pressing surface:  Wool pressing mats are great--and I consider a must have.  I had an unused wicker 24 x 48" 2 shelf book case that was table height that I repurposed as an ironing station by my sewing machine.  All I have to do is swivel my chair.  Rug pad USA has perfect solution (wool rug pad) at much less cost.
  
•  I had a 5/8" plywood cut to size.  
• I purchased 1/2" thick wool rug pad (from Rug Pads USA) and placed on board. (Much less expensive than specialty pads).  
• I upholstered a covering over top of it and it sits on top of the wicker bookcase. It is right by my sewing station.  It is firm, large, and I love using it. 
• Use med weight duck table cloths at thrift store.  I put these over top the covering.  They stay put, and I put them in the wash to remove glue/starch.
• Pressing aids:  
• I use homemade starch in a bottle.  I'm not going to use expensive aids. I love sizing, but I find that I drop the can and snap the top too often that I end up with wasted product.   Having said that, I spray starch/sizing...the cheap stuff.  I'm never going to buy expensive products as I don't think them necessary...but mostly because I'm cheap.
  
• Teflon coated fiberglass sheets:  These are perfect pressing aids. I bought mine at Amazon. These are a recent addition, and frankly the results are so wondrous I would never be without them.  Why?
  
• They are inexpensive.  
• Can be cut down to size.  
• Works perfectly with fusing, pressing (they are permeable), and glue basting.  They give you very flat block and protects your iron from any fusibles' residue.
• They both conduct and retain heat, so you can iron your block, place a book overtop and have your block incubate in the heat.  
• Eliminates shine on raised seams.
• Protects your fabric from iron gunk

Hopefully readers might find something useful here.

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Hunter's Star: Part II

 You can see my lengthy post on my approaching the Hunter's Star for the first time here.  Here's the result from using 6" quarter blocks to make 12" blocks for this 36" x 36" baby quilt.  While this started as practice, it turned out so well, that I'm not ashamed to give it away.

Hunter's Star Baby Quilt

I started with the turquoise and white, but I did not have enough fabric to make more than 5 complete blocks.  I had some other fabric (that came in a mystery print box from Hancock's of Paducah), that picked up the colors.  I used that as fill in block.  I'll make a baby quilt from this. This finished at 36" x 36".

For those who LOVE stars such as the Lemoyne, the Hunter's Star may be more approachable. The construction methods are VERY different, but you end up with a beautiful eight pointed star inside of a block.

In my prior post, Mary provides a scrappy version, and I think that it looks lovely. 

I see several posting on how to make this using half square triangles. By doing so, you break up prints.  With Deb Tucker's construction method, there is no need to use cheater methods to avoid dealing with sewing diamonds to trapezoids.  Sewing the trapezoid to a diamond strip is so easy and accurate.  I'm not great quilter, but I feel that my results for first time speaks to the ease and efficacy of the method.

 

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Creative Grids Diamond Dimensions Rulers + Hunter's Star --Part 1

 I'm just loving Deb Tucker's Rapid Fire LeMoyne Star tool.  I have several of of her tools that I enjoy using.  But rulers are an investment, and the cost can quickly add up. With her tools, I can quickly and confidently make "stuff"  that would look like I had many years of quilting experience.  While Deb has other tools  to make wedge star and Hunter's star, I elected to use my other rulers paired with her cutting and piecing methods to achieve the same high quality outcomes.

The Hunter's Star is a quilt block that I wanted to tackle.  While Deb has a ruler for that, I felt that I could press into service my Creative Grids Diamond Dimension ruler.  The thing about rulers is the markings.  Some specialty rulers are just that--specialty.  I didn't want any more specialty rulers, so I put my noggin' to use and conscripted this ruler into service.  It has lots of marking on it to make accurate cuts, and I used it to make her wedge star, and to cut strips for the LeMoyne star.  

I want to present my learnings from tackling this block.  I find that my approach to quilting is much like my approach to cooking and other stuff:  I search about to find the best methods for me and combine them.  I want to show you how I did this.

Here's the ruler that I relied on.  (In fact, I MacGyvered this method BECAUSE I had this tool).

Creative Grids CGREU2 Diamond Dimensions

With this ruler, I was able to make her wedge star (octagonal LeMoyne Star that runs true North/South), easily cut strips for the Lemoyne Star and .....drum roll.... make the Hunter's Star.  Here's a mockup of a Hunter's Star Quilt that I did on my EQ8 (I really like this program--it helps for the spatially challenged.  No critique of colors or layout, they were chosen for clarity)

The beauty of this block is that is incorporates a LeMoyne star element in infinitely creative ways based on color choice and placement.  While it looks complicated, it can be accomplished EASILY by relying on innovative cutting and piecing methods.  Be forewarned:  there can be BIAS GALORE in this block. 

💣  Different cutting methods yield different results in bias placement.  For example, you can cut a trapezoid easily from a square cut on a diagonal, and then cut again for the width of your trapezoid. But you will have bias along the long edge.  Cutting trapezoids from strips will yield no bias on long ends (top/bottom), just on the short end.

 Before you get started on your project, have a look at these two videos. 

 

Deb's construction method relies on her rulers.  However, as I had an expensive ruler, I used that with with her cutting and piecing methods for the trapezoids/diamonds.  I ended up with PERFECT results my first time.  I would NEVER piece a diamond to a trapezoid, but would employ sewing the trapezoid to a strip and then trimming to width of trap on angle which creates perfect diamonds.

I also found this video helpful.  It is in Spanish, but it was effective for helping me get measurements for my trial blocks.

 

 

Mary's method of constructing trapezoids (cutting square on diagonal and cutting out desired trap width and using the remainder corner as the corner pieces.  While fantastically easy, I think it introduces too much bias.  I saw; I used; I abandoned. But I used her measurements with Deb's construction and Leisa's modifications. 

Let's look at the elements of a Hunter's Star Block:   You will need to click to enlarge.  This is a 6" block demonstrated in the second video above--Thank you Mary.  It represents 1 of 4 blocks needed to make a full block that reveals the star (top left and bottom right corners).  Depending on you you rotate your blocks (and assemble the elements) you have many design possibilities.  This finished block measures 12".  Your element measurements will go up and down depending on your desired finished size.  To help you visualize, I will give you a pick of a 1/4th block and its anatomy.  You'll have to click to enlarge.

A full Hunter's star block contains

• (16)  Diamonds
• (8)   Trapezoids
• (8)   Triangles
  

There are time-saving and accuracy-improving methods that don't involve cutting individual elements. It also means that you can enjoy your favorite beverage or two and not make mistakes!

Essentials.  I would not bother making this block if I did not have access to the following:

• rulers: Creative Grids Diamond Dimensions + Antler Design Simple Folded Corners.  I would not make this block without either.  I have Slip Doctor transparent grip tape on the SFC ruler because there can be NO shifting for the trap cutting or final block trim.  That tape is the most stable ruler grip I've used.
• Pressing aids: iron, firm pressing surface; pressing mat and pressing aid spray of your choice:  I do not press my seams open.  My finished block lays perfectly flat because I press at every turn, use starch and a pressing mat made from teflon coated fiberglass.  I think that a pressing mat reduces iron drag and will not shine your fabric. 

I combined the two methods from these makers for this 6" star.  These are Mary's measurements and they worked well for me.  To make the block, I chose a turquoise fabric and and a white==2 colors.

Diamonds:  NO DIAMOND CUTTING. For this block, I cut a 2 1/8th diamond strip.  I used Deb's method of cutting the diamond strip, and glue basted the ends of the trapezoid to the strip with 1/4" spacing. The glue basting firmly fixed the trapezoids and stabilized that bias edge.  They were secure as I ran a perfect 1/4" seam. Once you trim down the trapezoid on a 45 degree angle (following width of trapezoid which is 2") you have PERFECTLY executed diamonds.  I found that my Diamond Dimensions ruler really shined here.  The lines allowed me to align my ruler both for the width and for the angle due to the thoughtful ruler markings.  I cannot sing enough praises for this ruler.

Here's an image of the trapezoids (cut actual size), sewn to diamond strip.  This ruler has many lines to accurately align to the trapezoid to cleanly cut your diamond. 

Corner Triangles:  5 1/4" squares cut on diagonal. Oversizing and then cutting down on the trim down is  highly recommended here.  Prep is a breeze.

Trapezoids:  Here was Mary's cutting:  4" block cut on diagonal and each section cut again to diamond width (2").  Again... no futzing with specialty rulers, you have one that does this.  This element must be true size. Deb uses a strip.  The strip is more stable as straight of grain is on top and bottom.  Mary's way is easier, but I noticed stretch.  Because Deb's method involves attaching trapezoids to a strip, there is too much handling for using biased trapezoids in my opinion.  

For this pattern, I cut traps out of  2" strips WOF.  I used my Antler Design Simple Folded corners ruler lined up at the 3.5" mark at the base.  I cut 4 at a time, so it goes quickly.  

Seam allowances.  I pressed all seam allowance one way and in the direction of the dark diamond on the star corner of your block.  I spinned the seams on the last piecing of the two halves.  The hardest part of the construction is when you have to press the light trapezoids toward the darker diamond strip.  Pressing to the dark trapezoids is much easier.

Piecing:  I piece the two trapezoid strips together first. (sew the longest edges together). Yes, I glue baste them....in mass matching the points.  There are two reasons for this:

1.  If you find that you have cut your trapezoids wrong you will not have a corner attached to your dud cut.  I had to repurpose trapezoid diamond strips because I must have looked at my ruler wrong and cut it short. At least I didn't have to unpick a corner...and as the corners have bias at the same, there will be stretch from unpicking handling.  So...match traps first...you'll be glad you did.
2. Once traps are sewn together, find and mark the middle by matching the r/l long end SEAM lines of the trapezoid by folding in half lengthwise.  Make a small notch at the center.   There is your middle line. You will use this mark wen you trim your block using the half square method of trimming.

I then press these two units toward the dark star fabric.

Attach the corner blocks.  Again, I glue baste.  I run a bead of glue on the top of the light trap units and center the corner (remember it is cut oversized). Press toward light corner. I make a stack, and then sew them all.  I then work with the dark units (rinse and repeat).  Press to the dark trap.

Trimming your block.  I found the easiest way to trim this block is with Simple Folded Corners ruler.  If you don't have one, you will find many uses for it.  (Antler Design...they have a small and large; I have the large).  With the exception the trapezoids which are cut true, all other components are slightly oversized.  You've identified the middle of the traps.  

Fold the block back on itself, right sides together.  We are working with the back of the block because our center snip is there.  I would spritz and press.  Now your block is a triangle with a notched center.  For this block, I line up the 6" line on my ruler ON THE SEAM LINE and centered on the notch. Again this ruler has perfect marking for this method.  This line is a diagonal  of the block which is the base.  The corner of the ruler is pointing up. I then trim on either side.  I have found that I have had NO exceptions in trying to join my blocks and match my points.

💡  Here's a tip for joining two halves: I ran across this video from QuiltMavenDave.  It is a wonderful exposition of how to get perfect points without the crowding of pins (and I glue baste, I never use pins).  I found his method for matching the points at the final joining of the two halves to be perfectly effective. The floss allows a pivot point that allows you to maneuver/match the other points. 

 He also uses dental floss to bury quilting threads.  Thread the needle with floss once, and then loop you tail and pull through your quilt.  Now how much time will THAT save you?  Tons.

I have really fallen in love with this block, and I've appreciated Deb's and Mary's generous sharing of their methods.  However, even using time saving methods, it is many steps of cutting, piecing, sewing and trimming.

 

 

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Snap!

 I had a surprising injury Friday a week ago.  I was undertaking a very simple task of cleaning cat gack off of a leather sofa cushion when the joint of my middle finger popped and drooped.  I thought I had dislocated my finger.  It hurt.  I tugged on the finger to ensure that it was in line.  I immediately got some surgical tape and taped the joint securely while I rummaged for my finger splint.  It was really painful on Friday p.m. and Saturday p.m. enough to keep me awake.

The finger splint was a life saver, but clunky.  It was a padded aluminum sheath that went over the fingertip and closed withVelcro strip.  I couldn't type or do any of my needful things.  When I removed the splint on Saturday, my finger tip drooped. I figured that the "snap" was my tendon on my top middle finger knuckle freeing itself, with impunity.

I schlepped to Patient First.  I had to listen to a doofus complaining to another patient (who was very polite) that he would have miss time from work because he was exposed to COVID.   Yes, in the middle of a pandemic they had a "sweet sixteen" birthday party.  His niece tested for COVID.  And he went on and on and on.

I bit my tongue.  I realized that "American Grit" is mostly a myth. Too many citizens feel like protecting themselves an others by something so simple as wearing a mask is an infringement on their "freedom".  Generally it is accepted that with freedom comes responsibility.  I so tire of the stupidity.

I did get my COVID shot today since all is opened up.  My arm is sore.  I have a bit of a headache, but I'm darn happy.  I don't typically get flu shots, but this vaccine is one that I couldn't wait to get. We've known very sick, hospitalized and dead folks from this virus.  And I don't know that many people.

I digress. My finger was Xrayed.  They said I had an avulsion fracture (tendon took bone off), but the next day the nurse called and said the radiologist said no fracture.  I got to the ortho this past Wednesday.  The doc was impressed with my McGyver splinting.  I had shimmed the bottom of my finger with an aluminum rabies tag to keep my finger straighter.  He indicated that such an injury is very common and that the physics must have been just right.

They made me a mega cool "splint, which is a moldable plastic custom fir for my knuckle.  My fingertip is exposed, so I can type. My joint is perfectly and comfortably stabilized. The material is perforated so it is breathable.  Very cool.  

Oh and while I was showering, I reached down and "pop" went my back.  I had to call my husband to take me to the doctor.  I could barely walk.  Yes, I had to ask for a wheelchair and my husband pushed me around to doc office.  I was grateful for his assistance.  It was really important that I make that appointment.  

It's been an agonizing and painful week.  NO matter what my reaction to the COVID vaccine, it will be a stroll in the park compared to my finger and back.

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