Creative Grids Diamond Dimensions Rulers + Hunter's Star --Part 1

 I'm just loving Deb Tucker's Rapid Fire LeMoyne Star tool.  I have several of of her tools that I enjoy using.  But rulers are an investment, and the cost can quickly add up. With her tools, I can quickly and confidently make "stuff"  that would look like I had many years of quilting experience.  While Deb has other tools  to make wedge star and Hunter's star, I elected to use my other rulers paired with her cutting and piecing methods to achieve the same high quality outcomes.

The Hunter's Star is a quilt block that I wanted to tackle.  While Deb has a ruler for that, I felt that I could press into service my Creative Grids Diamond Dimension ruler.  The thing about rulers is the markings.  Some specialty rulers are just that--specialty.  I didn't want any more specialty rulers, so I put my noggin' to use and conscripted this ruler into service.  It has lots of marking on it to make accurate cuts, and I used it to make her wedge star, and to cut strips for the LeMoyne star.  

I want to present my learnings from tackling this block.  I find that my approach to quilting is much like my approach to cooking and other stuff:  I search about to find the best methods for me and combine them.  I want to show you how I did this.

Here's the ruler that I relied on.  (In fact, I MacGyvered this method BECAUSE I had this tool).

Creative Grids CGREU2 Diamond Dimensions

With this ruler, I was able to make her wedge star (octagonal LeMoyne Star that runs true North/South), easily cut strips for the Lemoyne Star and .....drum roll.... make the Hunter's Star.  Here's a mockup of a Hunter's Star Quilt that I did on my EQ8 (I really like this program--it helps for the spatially challenged.  No critique of colors or layout, they were chosen for clarity)

The beauty of this block is that is incorporates a LeMoyne star element in infinitely creative ways based on color choice and placement.  While it looks complicated, it can be accomplished EASILY by relying on innovative cutting and piecing methods.  Be forewarned:  there can be BIAS GALORE in this block. 

💣  Different cutting methods yield different results in bias placement.  For example, you can cut a trapezoid easily from a square cut on a diagonal, and then cut again for the width of your trapezoid. But you will have bias along the long edge.  Cutting trapezoids from strips will yield no bias on long ends (top/bottom), just on the short end.

 Before you get started on your project, have a look at these two videos. 

 

Deb's construction method relies on her rulers.  However, as I had an expensive ruler, I used that with with her cutting and piecing methods for the trapezoids/diamonds.  I ended up with PERFECT results my first time.  I would NEVER piece a diamond to a trapezoid, but would employ sewing the trapezoid to a strip and then trimming to width of trap on angle which creates perfect diamonds.

I also found this video helpful.  It is in Spanish, but it was effective for helping me get measurements for my trial blocks.

 

 

Mary's method of constructing trapezoids (cutting square on diagonal and cutting out desired trap width and using the remainder corner as the corner pieces.  While fantastically easy, I think it introduces too much bias.  I saw; I used; I abandoned. But I used her measurements with Deb's construction and Leisa's modifications. 

Let's look at the elements of a Hunter's Star Block:   You will need to click to enlarge.  This is a 6" block demonstrated in the second video above--Thank you Mary.  It represents 1 of 4 blocks needed to make a full block that reveals the star (top left and bottom right corners).  Depending on you you rotate your blocks (and assemble the elements) you have many design possibilities.  This finished block measures 12".  Your element measurements will go up and down depending on your desired finished size.  To help you visualize, I will give you a pick of a 1/4th block and its anatomy.  You'll have to click to enlarge.

A full Hunter's star block contains

• (16)  Diamonds
• (8)   Trapezoids
• (8)   Triangles
  

There are time-saving and accuracy-improving methods that don't involve cutting individual elements. It also means that you can enjoy your favorite beverage or two and not make mistakes!

Essentials.  I would not bother making this block if I did not have access to the following:

• rulers: Creative Grids Diamond Dimensions + Antler Design Simple Folded Corners.  I would not make this block without either.  I have Slip Doctor transparent grip tape on the SFC ruler because there can be NO shifting for the trap cutting or final block trim.  That tape is the most stable ruler grip I've used.
• Pressing aids: iron, firm pressing surface; pressing mat and pressing aid spray of your choice:  I do not press my seams open.  My finished block lays perfectly flat because I press at every turn, use starch and a pressing mat made from teflon coated fiberglass.  I think that a pressing mat reduces iron drag and will not shine your fabric. 

I combined the two methods from these makers for this 6" star.  These are Mary's measurements and they worked well for me.  To make the block, I chose a turquoise fabric and and a white==2 colors.

Diamonds:  NO DIAMOND CUTTING. For this block, I cut a 2 1/8th diamond strip.  I used Deb's method of cutting the diamond strip, and glue basted the ends of the trapezoid to the strip with 1/4" spacing. The glue basting firmly fixed the trapezoids and stabilized that bias edge.  They were secure as I ran a perfect 1/4" seam. Once you trim down the trapezoid on a 45 degree angle (following width of trapezoid which is 2") you have PERFECTLY executed diamonds.  I found that my Diamond Dimensions ruler really shined here.  The lines allowed me to align my ruler both for the width and for the angle due to the thoughtful ruler markings.  I cannot sing enough praises for this ruler.

Here's an image of the trapezoids (cut actual size), sewn to diamond strip.  This ruler has many lines to accurately align to the trapezoid to cleanly cut your diamond. 

Corner Triangles:  5 1/4" squares cut on diagonal. Oversizing and then cutting down on the trim down is  highly recommended here.  Prep is a breeze.

Trapezoids:  Here was Mary's cutting:  4" block cut on diagonal and each section cut again to diamond width (2").  Again... no futzing with specialty rulers, you have one that does this.  This element must be true size. Deb uses a strip.  The strip is more stable as straight of grain is on top and bottom.  Mary's way is easier, but I noticed stretch.  Because Deb's method involves attaching trapezoids to a strip, there is too much handling for using biased trapezoids in my opinion.  

For this pattern, I cut traps out of  2" strips WOF.  I used my Antler Design Simple Folded corners ruler lined up at the 3.5" mark at the base.  I cut 4 at a time, so it goes quickly.  

Seam allowances.  I pressed all seam allowance one way and in the direction of the dark diamond on the star corner of your block.  I spinned the seams on the last piecing of the two halves.  The hardest part of the construction is when you have to press the light trapezoids toward the darker diamond strip.  Pressing to the dark trapezoids is much easier.

Piecing:  I piece the two trapezoid strips together first. (sew the longest edges together). Yes, I glue baste them....in mass matching the points.  There are two reasons for this:

1.  If you find that you have cut your trapezoids wrong you will not have a corner attached to your dud cut.  I had to repurpose trapezoid diamond strips because I must have looked at my ruler wrong and cut it short. At least I didn't have to unpick a corner...and as the corners have bias at the same, there will be stretch from unpicking handling.  So...match traps first...you'll be glad you did.
2. Once traps are sewn together, find and mark the middle by matching the r/l long end SEAM lines of the trapezoid by folding in half lengthwise.  Make a small notch at the center.   There is your middle line. You will use this mark wen you trim your block using the half square method of trimming.

I then press these two units toward the dark star fabric.

Attach the corner blocks.  Again, I glue baste.  I run a bead of glue on the top of the light trap units and center the corner (remember it is cut oversized). Press toward light corner. I make a stack, and then sew them all.  I then work with the dark units (rinse and repeat).  Press to the dark trap.

Trimming your block.  I found the easiest way to trim this block is with Simple Folded Corners ruler.  If you don't have one, you will find many uses for it.  (Antler Design...they have a small and large; I have the large).  With the exception the trapezoids which are cut true, all other components are slightly oversized.  You've identified the middle of the traps.  

Fold the block back on itself, right sides together.  We are working with the back of the block because our center snip is there.  I would spritz and press.  Now your block is a triangle with a notched center.  For this block, I line up the 6" line on my ruler ON THE SEAM LINE and centered on the notch. Again this ruler has perfect marking for this method.  This line is a diagonal  of the block which is the base.  The corner of the ruler is pointing up. I then trim on either side.  I have found that I have had NO exceptions in trying to join my blocks and match my points.

💡  Here's a tip for joining two halves: I ran across this video from QuiltMavenDave.  It is a wonderful exposition of how to get perfect points without the crowding of pins (and I glue baste, I never use pins).  I found his method for matching the points at the final joining of the two halves to be perfectly effective. The floss allows a pivot point that allows you to maneuver/match the other points. 

 He also uses dental floss to bury quilting threads.  Thread the needle with floss once, and then loop you tail and pull through your quilt.  Now how much time will THAT save you?  Tons.

I have really fallen in love with this block, and I've appreciated Deb's and Mary's generous sharing of their methods.  However, even using time saving methods, it is many steps of cutting, piecing, sewing and trimming.