Sawtooth Star

There are many star patterns that are captivating.  Part of that captivation is the amount of variety achieved by changing color values.  I think that the power and value of quilting programs (I have EQ8) are really demonstrated in helping conceptually (especially those of us who are spatially challenged) with such designs to save time, frustration and fabric. Here's an example of a Sawtooth in a Sawtooth I drafted on EQ8.  I imported by Andover Warm Stash (Edyta's line) and used those for the block colorings.

 

Sawtooth in Sawtooth

I like to think of quilt blocks as composite units that have a relational value to all of the other units and of course the block itself. Using this deconstructing approach, you can look at photos and such, and view how the block was put together.  Further, you can determine what approach you would take.

Let's use that approach for the humble Sawtooth Star.  As you think about the scale of your Sawtooth block and how to construct it consider that the block is basically a 16 patch: 4 units wide and 4 units tall.  I chose units over "blocks" because this approach requires your distilling down the the SMALLEST unit of measure upon which all other elements will be derivative (upsizing or downsizing scale).  I think it helps to think in these terms so that you can rely on YOUR  skills to craft blocks of different sizes and elements. 

For example, if you construct this with HST units for the flying goose, each of those would have a value of  1 --and you would need 2.   As flying geese are width = 2 x H, using that block v. an HST yields a footprint of 2, so you only need one each of those FG units.  I prefer the flying geese v HST.  But if you have a boatload of HST's at the size you need, then this is an excellent way to use them.

Again, understanding the relation of the blocks to each other and the block, allows you to make more varied design choices for any other elements (corner blocks and center block).

Here are the deconstructed elements of this Sawtooth block--regardless of size.  Keep in mind that we are working with a square...so rows and columns will have equal units.  Calculate using finished blocks sizes first and then add 1/2" seam allowance (1/4" x 2) to achieve cut sizes.  Otherwise the math will drive you crazy.

1. The finished block is divisible by 4 units down and across. (4x4...square!)
   
2. Each of the corners has a value of 1
3. Each of the middle blocks around the perimeter of the block has a value of 2  if you are using flying geese, or a value of 1 x 2 HST units. 
   
4. the middle square is 1/2 the size of the block
   

Now let's see how this works out for a real block (baby quilt that I'm working on):

💡  It will help you greatly to adopt some shorthand.  When you are doing your math, use "F" for Finished and "C" for cut. Further....your "T"rim size the the size of your unfinished block.  Also, make a test block before engaging in a flurry of activity of cutting and sewing only to find that something was not quite right.  Sometimes our cuts and blocks warrant a "FU".  Those go in my scrap bag totes.

 I will use this shorthand below.

For a 10" F block which is a 10.5" T (put it all together and Trim to 10.5")

• Corners are a unit of 1.  
• 10"/4 units = 2.5" F (2.5" = unit of 1)
• Cut size requires that you add a 1/2".  Cut size = 2.5" + .5"= 3" C.
• The middle square is 10"/2 = 5" F;  5+.5" = 5.5" C 
  
• This square is 2 units wide x 2 units tall.  Each unit is 2.5" F.  Use those unit sizes if you want to put a four patch as your middle. (e.g. cut (4) 3" squares).
• Want to put a 16 patch in the middle to use up trimming?
• 5"F/4=1.25" F and 1.25+.5 = 1.75" C

Note:  💡 & 💣 You could conceivably put any type of  # patch...but you have the constraints of your ruler.  For example, if you were going to put a 9 patch in, the math would be 5/3 =1.667 F + .5 for 2.167" C. You can see that your ruler is not much help to you.  Both 4 and 16 can be squared by whole numbers (2, 8) which is why the 4  (2x2) and 16 (8x8) work. The bomb is there is you try to make googly sizes and tear all your hair out!

• The middle units around the perimeter have a value of 2x the corner unit; The flying goose is 2.5" x 2 =5" wide by 2.5 tall; if using HST's you need (2) 2.5" x 2.5" HST units.
  

For the 5" block in the middle (5.5" cut)

 

• Corners = 5/4=1.25 (unit of 1 = 1.25) + .5 for 1.75" cut size
  
• Middle = 5/2=2.5 + .5" for 3" cutsize
• Flying Geese = 2x1.25 or 2.5" x 5" (flying geese are always at a width = 2 x height).  Trimmed unit would be 3 x 5.5" to include seam allowances.
  

 

So taking the approach above, you can size this block however you like.  You can find some worksheets on the internet that list some of these sizes.  But you can now rely on YOUR skill and math prowess to get the job done AND make substitutions that suit your preferences.

 

💡💡 I like to use the 4 at a time Flying Geese, No Waste Method.  You can find a chart at Generations quilt for all sizes of flying geese by clicking here.  Since this block has 4 flying geese, it is a very handy method:  fast, accurate and best of all no waste.  You can scrap up your geese by varying your squares.  I HIGHLY recommend Antler Designs.  See those 45 degree lines under the label?....they will help you line up your flying goose so that you get a perfect trim.  No need for specialty rulers.

 

Here's how much fun you can have with the gloriously, devilishly simple block.  Same star in a star with different color values and a substitution of a HST for the corners.

Who would think that the block below is a Sawtooth NON-star? 

 Here's a quilt using different colorizations and putting a HST in the corner of the larger star.  Everyone of these blocks is a Sawtoothed star layout with different variations.

 

 A better imagination than mine could  but together some even more interesting scenarios.Endless possibilities for creative expression.