💠 Google docs spreadsheet to enter your calculations for your next project 💠
Today I had a chance work on my Modified Betwixt. I continued on making my test block for the Ohio Star to include utilizing the 8 at a time method (a/k/a Magic 8). I wasn't paying attention on my first pass and ended up with something unusable because I didn't f-💣ing pay attention to the horizontal and vertical bisecting lines. Oh geez...put them in the scrap pile.
Once I solidified my construction method on my manifold QST units, I was happy to buzz along without any further hiccups. The Kona Snow is just a beautiful accompaniment to my fabrics.
My first Ohio Star went together beautifully. The Kona Snow is just a beautiful accompaniment to my fabrics blue and gold fabrics. One down, 31 more to go. I'm about 1/3 of the way through making the QST units. Everything else is simply a 3.5" square. The Stripology ruler made short work of that. Even using the Magic 8 method, hourglass units are time intensive.
The Magic 8 Method is a simple method once you understand the basics. Below is a diagram of Half Square Triangle Units.
💡 If you have a rotating mat, there is a perfect center where your square will line up with 45 degree diagonals as well as bi-lateral marks for each 1/2 length cut. It is super useful. I STRONGLY recommend that you make your bilateral cuts first. These are the outside of your HST's, and the unit is together, therefore stable. If you make your diagonal cuts first, then you have some fussing to do. Once you have made your bi-lateral cuts
For my purposes, I required QST's (quarter square triangle) that finished at 3". For each pair of HST's (half square triangle) units you get 1 QST. You can see that there are 4 quadrants that each have a HST unit. Notice that each unit has outer edges that are cut on the straight of grain (either cross wise or length wise). The bias is on each diagonal and safely encased in your careful stitching.
After marking 2 diagonals and sewing a 1/4" away on both sides of the diagonal, the unit is ready to slice and dice. A rotary mat can be helpful here, but not necessary. Cut on each diagonal and then cut on each horizontal and vertical mid lines. While the midlines should bisect your diagonals in the middle, it's worth a double check.
While there are tables that show the math, if you put this on an index card and put it on your sewing board, you will always have it handy. Your phone has all the calculating power you will need in your sewing room. And, my spreadsheet which you can find here will help you along.
HST Measurements: Cut 2 squares as follows
- Pure Math: Finished unit (FU) + 7/8"
- Trim down Math: Finished unit (FU) + 1"
- Example: Finished HST unit = 3" Cut 2 squares : FU + 1" or 3 + 1 = 4" squares needed.
QST Measurements: QST's are comprised of 2 HST's. As there is an addition of 2 more seams, the math is a wee bit different. Cut 2 squares as follows
- Pure Math: Finished Unit (FU) + 1.25"
- Trim Down Math: FU + 1.5
- Example: Finished QST unit = 3". 3" + 1.5 = 4.5" squares needed.
- Magic 8 HST: FU = 3" Squares = 3 + 1 = 4. 4 x 2 = 8" square pairs needed.
- Magic 8 QST: FU = 3" Squares = 3 = 1.5 - 4.5 = 9" square pairs needed.
Squaring up your HST's. I have found that squaring up HST's using triangle and TRIMMED block size line on the seam line (e.g. 3" line for 3" block on seam line) on base is an easy and accurate way to square up your HST's. Point your your unit so that the corner faces 2 o clock so that you have easy access to both trim sides.
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