Megan at Tiny Orchard Quilts is a delightful teacher. She posted a video which you can see above, and which you can find here on the Economy Block (EB). She also has created PDF free downloads which are also available other places on line.
My first foray into Foundation Paper Piecing a couple of years ago made my brain hurt. You are working from the front of the printed side of the block to the make something happen on the back. That my brain didn't click for a while was frustrating. And when I thought I "had it" often my pieces would not fit, or got turned about. To see the shape of a thing and where it needed to fit, particularly if angular was problematic. Lee Henrich has a great video on that here.
As I am accustomed to doing, after I undertake a process and beat my head against a wall, I like to codify my learnings. I like the Economy Block because it offers one of the better ways, in my view, to use scraps in an organized, fluent way. It's a neat square, in square, square block.Further, the interior block can be designed so that it is a 4 patch (or more!), hour glass, HST, pinwheel. Further still, the EB can serve as the middle block in large block configurations...an Ohio or Sawtooth star for example. They can even serve as cornerstones in sashing. This block is particularly conducive to showcasing cut fabrics that have been fussy cut for the middle square.
It's also a good way to use not so well loved material that might come in a strip set or a fat quarter.
I have a number of scraps from the fat quarters used on the Prairie Quilt that I completed. I thought 3" EB's to be the perfect way to use them. (I put a solid back on, so did not incorporate them). My plan is to make as many EB's as I can from the scraps.
I chose the 3" EB because the sizes that you need to complete the components works well.
- Center Square 2"
- Triangles-inside, 2" piece cut with a folded corner ruler to include the seam allowance.
- Triangles-outside 2 1/2" piece cut with folded corner ruler to include the seam allowance.
I don't have an interest in working with anything smaller in such a block, but am happy to make a scrip scrap block from really odd bits.
After revisiting this charming, high-utility, versatile block, I want to present some of MY TIPS on taking some of the frustration out.
💡I'm a big believer in having the right tool for the job. At first I resisted buying an Add-a-Quarter ruler. My normal ruler just did not cut it. I had to spend more time aligning, and more pressure to steady the ruler. I bought the ruler, and I never regretted it. (I have all 3 sizes). Yes, you can use a regular ruler, but you have to apply more pressure to keep it steady. When you are making many of these that adds to hand fatigue in addition to additional time. An Add-A Quarter, nestles instantly, accurately. Specialty rulers that you will use again and again are investments: purchase once use for the rest of your quilting career.
The hurdle for purchasing a "stuff" for the quilting room is cleared by asking the following questions: Will it promote safety? Will it improve my accuracy and quilting outcomes? Will it make me more physically comfortable by relieving repetitive strain?
So here are my tips before getting started--they meet all the hurdles listed above:
- Tip #1: Add a Quarter will make your life easier.
- Tip #2: Dritz aluminum Easy Hemmer makes the perfect straight edge to fold back your patterns.
- Tip #3: Newsprint works beautifully. I just bought some newsprint from Dick Blick in 8.5 x 11" reams of 500 sheets. Free shipping over $45..so I bought several reams and some Pima Pens which I use to mark fabric (does not bleed through when used on wrong side). (Deb Tucker suggested these, and they work better than other brands of permanent that may bleed).
- Tip #4: Folded Corner Ruler: This ruler will allow you to cut your pieces from strips or small scraps in a size that you know fits. Saves time, and it does not waste fabric because it cuts with the seam allowance included. (More below).
- I cannot stress this enough. Putting misshapen pieces adds unwarranted complexity. Take the time to get the measurements that you need for the size block and cut your triangles with the seam allowance. A little time spent here saves lots of time when you are setting your squares and triangles in your block
- Tip # 5: Make registration marks on the front of your pattern that will BLEED THROUGH to the back so that you can set your first corner.
- Tip #6: If you have a Sew Steady acrylic table, put a nightlight (mine is on a dedicated extension cord under it and have a light table.
- Tip#7: Decobob 80wt thread (top and bottom) coupled with a Mircrotex needle work very well. The paper pulls away easily.
- Tip # 8: Eagle Beak Precision Tweezers helps with pulling paper, threading machine, pulling thread from ripped stitches and any other precision need in your sewing room. Also work as a stiletto. I ordered a second pair as I need them at a couple of stations in my sewing room.
I want to expand on Tips #4 -# 5. When you are working with FPP it can eat up time. These tips are to help you be very productive.
Let's take a 3" Economy Block as an example. This block comes 4 to a page
Before you cut these apart, lay a ruler on the inside square and mark a small line 1/4" away from the inside square. You only need to do so in one corner on each block. Lay your ruler down once on the left, make two marks, one for each block, and then once on right, make two marks, one for each block. Then make the right angled marks in the opposite direction. You want to have lines that cross so that you can easily see the corner.
Why? When you turn your newsprint over, you have a beautiful registration mark to lay your first square. I used a fine line Sharpie as I had tested it and knew it would bleed.
And because we have followed Tip # 4, we have a 2" (min) cut square that will fit perfectly. Put a dab of glue on the center, align your fabric with the registration mark, you will know that you have full coverage for your seam lines. No muss, no fuss.
Update: I added a 1/4" line on the front to make these marks and then I used a sharpie to outline the corners. (preferred). You could also double side print, but the marks were enough off, that I abandoned. (I did this, and abandoned). Plus, if you do this, you need a pressing sheet as the iron and print do not work well together.
There are no further registration marks needed. Why? Because we know what size triangles to place. We simply center them on the block.
Now you have to attach triangles. For a 3" Economy Block your first set of triangles can be cut from a 2" (1.75" if you make your placements carefully) strip (piece, scrap). Use your folded corner ruler and line up square edge. The diagonal has the seam allowance so it works very well. I had leftover cuts from fat quarter after making the Prairie Quilt. You can see how effective the Folded Corner Tool is in making triangles for this project without any fabric waste. I had strips left over from my fat quarters, and I cut them to size (in multi-layers) to make the inside corners.
Glue basting is your friend here. With squares, we work with opposing sides. Put a small bead of glue on one of the sides (Sorry for shadows)
. . . and attach your precut triangle. You don't have to fuss with the light table, because you know that this will fit and you have perfectly aligned seam. Tap with a hot iron to set.
Do the second side. My triangle at the top looks weird as there is not clipped corner. The overhang will get trimmed off when you fold your papers over and neaten your 1/4" seam allowance.
I hope that you can see at this point, that you can create your own Henry Ford production run and make LOTS of these for the simple reason that you have glue basted and have no pins. Make them up, reserve the pairs for the opposing sides, and put both in a tray to sew and move on to other stages.
When you are ready to sew, just flip over and sew each side. You cannot really chain piece because you have to stop inside the block. If you have a machine that cuts thread (I do not), you'll really like this feature.
When you are done sewing, check and trim your seam allowance by folding back the paper (ensuring that both pieces are pointing toward the inside of the block). (This is where I use my easy hemmer metal edge and fold the paper over and put my add a quarter over and trim excess fabric.) You will be trimming corner overhang from your triangles and any excess seam allowance.
💡 Because you have pre-measured FROM YOUR SCRAPS, you are being economical
by not creating more scraps. Whatever you trim off here, you just
simply throw away (unless you are making stuffing with scraps).
When you are ready to move onto the next round of triangles, the other ones, press your block. Do not use steam as it will distort the paper. Many just finger press. Once you have attached all four triangles, your unit is ready for the final roun which is rinse and repeat. Glue baste again, opposite sides as before.
Set your triangles.
Flip and sew (when you are ready)
Brown Betty says bring it on.
I press these, and then trim. These are 3.5" blocks, and a square up trimmer for works very well. I'm using my Tucker Trimmer and trimming on the 3.5" block. Align on the outside edge of your foundation. Trim right and top, rotate 180 degrees and trim right and top. Then peel off the backing. You will have perfect little blocks ready to be conscripted into service.
Adopting these tips will make your FPP life easier. You will be. . .
- taking the guess work as to where the first piece needs to go and eliminating the need for a light table for this block (other blocks will need a light "table") by making registration marks that will bleed to the opposite side of the newsprint/paper for the first piece that will allow you an accurate, frustration-free start;
- efficiently auditioning/cutting fabric for squares and triangles that you know will fit without further trimming;
- using glue basting to secure your pieces without slippage as you stage your work;
- trimming wee bits off rather than chunks that have no further good use;
- working with correct grain of fabric;
- staging your work in discrete stages (cutting known sizes from your scraps for center squares, triangles) allowing you to manage your time effectively.
- with your triangles attached onto several blocks, you can sew for a few minutes at a time and make headway. Just move your blocks into another tray for the next stage.
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