In my real life, I have to solve complex problems--not that mitering boarders is a complex problem. But I rarely put borders on my quilts largely largely because I don't like the way they joins look and mitered corners seemed too complex.
Although I have watched videos in the past (maybe 18 months ago), on my Flutterby quilt I elected to figure out for myself how to miter my corners using my own tools and problem solving approach. While my result was "fine" it was not great. Accordingly, I re-engineered my approach to ensure that I had consistently excellent results. That forced me to consider the anatomy of the miter. I share that approach with you today.
The difference in my method v. other methods is that I am manipulating the borders, not the entire quilt. I happen to find that easier. I represent it as an alternative method, not a better method. It works for me because of the tools and techniques that I'm using. I know that it will be right every single time. Further, it avoids having to do the overly-complicated marking/measuring of the quilt length/width etc to get averages. Simply ensure that you have enough length on any sides to cover the quilt and the two borders with another 2-3 inches for safety. We will work with one corner at a time and trim each to perfection. But we first sew each of our pieces to within 1/4" of each corner.
I use my Creative Grids 45 Degree Diamond Dimensions Ruler because it had exactly the markings that allow to to achieve 4 points of alignment:
- Top of the project (Top of ruler)
- Side of the project (through ruler marking)
- Seam line (1/4" ruler marking from top)
- Strip width, (through ruler marking).
My Antler Designs, Simple folded Corners (large) also had the exact visuals that I needed. Most of the rulers do not have this level of markings as these two rulers do. I did not find any other rulers that I would use for this method. Either of these rulers would be a wonderful addition to your sewing tools. I would not be without either. Both enjoy MVP status in my sewing room (lair).
In my video, I demonstrate each of the 4 anchor points to ensure that you get a perfectly mitered corner EXACTLY from your 1/4" sewn points for your border. To make this work, you have to sew a PERFECT 1/4" seam that is not one stitch too short (gap) or 1 stitch too long (pucker). Always use your hand wheel coming to your point, and be mindful if your machine takes an extra stitch when you use your backstitch. Otherwise, you will need to unpick and try again. Another tip is to shorten you seam length which will help you hit the mark perfectly.
Accordingly, you are making the cut without gritting your teeth or shutting your eyes (or both) because the mechanics of this method are such (so long as you follow the alignment instructions) that there is no way that you can go wrong except:
- the 1/4" seam is not a 1/4"
- the corners are not a perfect 1/4" sewn at the intersect.
- If you stitch one stitch further in, you will get a pucker
- If you stitch one stitch short of your mark, you will get a gap.
For perfect markings for 1/4" marks regardless of of the angle, please consider investing in Marti Michell's Deluxe Corner Trimmer, or a similar tool. It is an MVP in my sewing room.
If you try this method and find it useful, please let me know.
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